I'mm PM or email you guys my address, and I'll take some photo's and write a bit on how to get into it this evening.
I got another amp soldered up last night before bed(at 5am, best time to do tedious work like this
)
I'm two for two, the first of the w126 amps works in my 300D. The PCB itself is the same, and there the same year model, so I wonder why the w126 is different than the w123? There are a few resistors either not present in one or present but different rateings, and a couple of IC's have different part numbers. I could understand if they were from different years, but there not.
If you know for sure what it came from, post the production date of your amp here, and the part number and what color the connector is. I'm curious..
Another note, these I'm working with are the 14pin amps for the models with the electric actuator. The earlier models with the vacuum unit have a similier looking amp, though I've never pulled one apart. I imagine there subject to the same failure of the solder joints as these are. Unless I can find someone local I don't have a way to test these, but I might grab a couple and see.
Another thing you should all do is check the amp draw on your cruise actuator, and the function of the switch. This is pretty easy with a milti-meter. Somewhere online there is a good writeup on how to do it. The FSM covers it, but is not so friendly sometimes.