Quote:
Originally posted by Duke2.6
The switch would be very difficult to remove due to its location and use of phillips head screws to mount it. The first thing to do is disconnect the pigtail on top of the manifold and check that the switch provides the correct WOT and idle signals. Mine was intermittent at idle.
Duke
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Thanks Duke,
I checked with an ohmmetre the switch and I am not sure it is OK.
The switch behaves like and resistance readings were like this:
at idle: contact between 1 and 2 on connector,
between idle and full opening: sometimes hesitation on reistance reading,
change at almost full opening of the throttle butterfly: contact between 2 and 3 on connector.
What should be read inbetween idle and full opening , should there be no contact between 1 and 2, neither 2 and 3b? or something else
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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km
Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km
Son's one: GLK class 220CDI, 2009, W204
Sold E class 260E, W124, 1988 beloved car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch and 5 speed manual gear box all original).
E-class, W210 320CDI, 2000[/B], 225 000km, Sold
Last edited by cc260E; 06-02-2004 at 01:10 PM.
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