View Single Post
  #12  
Old 07-01-2004, 03:39 AM
andy190380
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
THANKS!! BACK TO NORMAL BUT...

Thank you gentleman, especially steve and Gilly and Greg.

It was an air pocket in the system. I bled the entire system radiator, valve on the cyl. head, and the heater core. This time when I filled it it took the proper amount. I also installed a new pressure tank and hose from the Press. tank to the "Puke Tank".


The car stays cool and RUNS 10 fold different no shuttering at idle after getting past op. temperature. The cylinder head is fine from what I can see.


Now here is a new problem...

My Temp gauge is inaccurate!

this might be what caused this whole problem.

The temp was reading around 80C but.... now that the operating temperature is normal its hanging around the 60ish mark? So I thought hmmm. whats going on? I got the car to operating temperature and that was measuring the actual temperature of coolant system with my all to handy stanley laser temp gauge.

The gauge in the car was reading just above the second mark from the bottom. Yet my laser gun was reading 167* at the radiator and 178* at the presure tank.
So that has to be inaccurate.

I went into the car and the needle was slightly jumpy so my idiot reflex made me tap the face of the cluster. the tap made the needle shoot up to 120 so I flicked it harder and the stupid thing hung out around 80 then started flickering wildly before slowly going back down to 60ish.

I'm pretty sure its the gauge that is bad.

I have 3 questions.

1. Do I have to buy a entire cluster or can I just by the left hand gauges?

2. Is there an individual component that I can replace say a rheostat or potentiometer that controls the needle? All my other gauges work fine!

3. Is taking out/installing guages any different in a 190 than say a 380SEC?

Thanks for all your help

ANDY





3.
Reply With Quote