Get caliper rebuild kits and rebuild (that is, replace seal and dust boot) on both calipers on that axle.

The only reason they stick is bad boots or seals. There are several causes (old age, for intance, when the rubber gets hard), but if it stuck, it will stick again until properly cleaned and a new piston seal is installed.

Also, on later models with floating calipers, check for play in the guide rods and bushings, too. Usually shows up as tapered brake pads, thinner at the front than the rear, too. If there is any perceptible side play, replace them as loose floating calipers cause major reductions in braking effeciency.

Make sure you do not run the rotors too thin -- if there is a distinct lip at the edge of the rotor where the pads don't quite cover it, replace the rotor, it's too thin. Usually, by the time you've worn out the second set of pads on a rotor, the rotor is gone.

When the rotor gets too thin, the piston extends too far and will cock in the caliper bore. This causes it to drag the pad on the rotor and get too hot, and the heat cooks the rubber dust boot and piston seal. Dirt gets in from the torn boot, and the piston seal becomes hard, causing the pads to stay out instead of retract.

It's an easy fix.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!