Finally finished the mount replacement tonight. This was one of the more trying automotive experiences in recent memory. I think I'd rather pull the drivetrain out of my Acura again than do these mounts twice (well, not really, but it was tough).

I managed to crossthread the lower mount bolt on the driver's side mount (last one I was putting in), necessitating the removal of the 'leg' from the block and some thread-cutting work. That stupid mistake cost me a few hours of frustrating labor -- those mount nuts were *tight*, and there isn't any good way to get leverage on some of them.
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Some quick notes, should anyone else be silly enough to tackle this on his/her own:

All upper mount bolts can be accessed using craftsman allen bits (6mm in this case), extension bars and universal joints except the inner bolt on the driver's side -- after removing air cleaner etc on pass. side. (I would advise purchasing these tools if you don't already own them (or similar)).

Said inner bolt is easy to access with a ratchet and allen bit if the underside mount bolt is removed and the engine is raised up enough to gain clearance.

To install mounts, I had good luck threading the upper bolts in first (with engine still raised so access is possible to inner upper pass. side bolt -- I don't see any other way to get that one started.) but not all the way in. Leave them loose so the mount can move a bit.

Use a large prybar and keep weight off the engine mount (with the jack) to get the 'leg' into place to line everything up for the installation of the underside bolt. Visually confirm the 'line' from underneath -- it is easy to see when the threads are lined up with the mount hole. DO NOT force the bolt in -- the 'leg' is aluminum, which is much softer than the bolt and it is very easy to ruin the threads by crossthreading. I speak from experience.

If disaster strikes, and you round out a lower bolt, see posts above. 12-pt. sockets are a good bet.

If you must remove a 'leg' to repair threads, use u-joints and extensions on the mounting nuts. You will need a length of pipe for leverage, as these are tight. I had to remove the driver's side 'leg' nut closest to the oil lines from underneath, using a ratchet, which was then hit with bar and hammer from the front of the car to break it loose. The leg on this side can be removed if the rubber mount is removed first and the engine lowered enough for the leg to clear the steering lines. I assume the same tricks will work on the pass. side leg should it be necessary. The nuts are easier to remove on that one, anyway -- all from the top with extensions/u-joints.

Sorry for long post -- this was a real ordeal, and I thought I'd post while it was fresh on my mind in case someone needed any advice.