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250 Engine Ressurection - 3
Christy,
Here's how to hand crank the engine. I've written it so anybody searching the archives can use the info. Sorry to repeat some of what you already know.
First off, tools required:
- A 28mm (or 1 1/8") socket. Sears and Home depot sell it as a 1/2" drive, 12 point socket.
- A 3" (give or take a little) extension rod.
- A breaker bar (long handle sucker. Mine is about 3 foot). Longer is better than shorter.
- TWO 10mm combination end wrenches; MUST have a 6-point closed end, NOT 12-point (which means sears, not home depo).
OK, get out the 108-109-111-113 manual and turn to page 00-1/9.
Here, you'll see two pictures of an engine, not unlike yours. The first, R00-5106 (read the fine print at the bottom of each picture), shows the fan on the left and you can just make out the pulley on the crankshaft below the fan. The other picture, R00-5107 shows the pulley more clearly.
A few pages back, on 00-1/3, you can plainly see the pulley and the bolt you're looking for. Of course, this is a 3.5l v8, but the idea is the same.
Your first goal is to convince the socket to fit over that bolt there on the crankshaft. I find it a lot easier to be flat on your back and reach up from the bottom for this. Also, be sure to put the extension on the socket, but leave off the breaker bar. It's a lot easier to just do the socket all by itself.
Now that the socket is on the bolt, attach the breaker bar to the socket. Here, you have a choice, have the breaker bar point down to the ground, or up to the sky. If you choose up, the fan is going to be in your way; remove it.
To remove the fan, loosen by one quarter turn each of the four bolts that holds the fan to the pulley on the water pump. Since the bolts are tight and you can't hold the fan still (good ol' hydraulic clutch), use one of the 10mm box end wrenches to hold a still-tight nut while you loose another. To do the last nut, you're going to tighten one of the loose ones, but that's OK, since it won't be all that tight and you can loosen it again by hand.
Now that all four bolts are loose, you can remove them, remove the fan, and then put the bolts back so the pulley doesn't fall off and take the belts with it. Yes, you can start the car this way (assuming you get the car to a state where it will start). Don't drive it long or let it idle for long like this, since there is no fan to cool it down).
With the breaker bar in place, you can now hand crank the engine a little. If you do it with the plugs in place, you'll find that it takes elbow grease. Take some or all the plugs out to make it easy.
-CTH
PS. The 28mm socket is for all the '60s straight 6 motors EXCEPT the M189. For that one, you'll need to get a 32mm socket and weld a toung made from steel inside it to make a mondo screw driver. I recall the steel I used being 1/4", but you'll have to measure it. For the M110, M116 & M117 motors, you'll need a 27mm socket. For the M100, a 2" socket is required. Sears sells one with 3/4" drive, so you'll also need their 1/2" to 3/4" converter.
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