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Originally Posted by willrev
Turbo tube drain gasket is leaking a little.
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I don't think this is caused by the gasket. The turbo drain gasket is located right on the turbo and if you had a leak there, you'd probably have a burning oil smell and light smoke under the hood after running on the highway. The more likely scenario would be the turbo oil drain
grommet. It is located in the upper oil pan. To do this job correctly, you must drop the lower oilpan to replace the grommet. Before spending the time and money to do that job, make sure you aren't overfilling your crankcase with lube oil. The proper fill is 1/2 way betweeen the two marks on the dipstick with the engine cold. These cars are old and the aged rubber grommet has hardened and no longer makes a tight seal against the opening in the upper oil pan and overfilling will make them leak at the grommet.
On both of my cars with the OM617 engine, anything over that 1/2 way point on the dipstick, causes a leak at the turbo drain grommet. Actually, my wagon likes her oil level slightly lower than the 300D...something like 1/3 of the distance between the two marks. Anything over that and she leaks like a sieve.
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Originally Posted by willrev
The crankcase breather drain pipe is leaking oil and may have a broken bracket which could vibrate this pipe and damage air filter bracket.
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He's backwards on this. More than likely, the airfilter bracket or, one of the aircleaner mounts, is already broken because they're a stupid design (plenty in here on that topic) and it is rattling around, and not allowing the oil separator (crankcase breather) drain to mate tight to the bottom of the airfilter housing. There is also a bracket behind the turbo that supports the breather drain which sometimes doesn't get reinstalled after some intake or exhaust service. Both issues will cause a leak.
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Originally Posted by willrev
Rear end is sitting low - he says becasue rear shocks are leaking fluid. He said to replace them, the rear seat has to come out or the fuel tank has to be dropped.
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This is a plain 'ol SD right? No hydropneumatic suspension either, right? If so, leaking/bad shocks will not cause the rear to sag. In addition to what Hatterasguy pointed out, a sagging rear is going to have to be something other than shocks... like old, bagged out springs, rusted out spring perches or a seriously crapped-out diffy mount. And, I'm pretty daggone sure that you only need take out the back seat to access the top of the shocks for removal.
With access to a lift, it might take 60-90 minutes tops to change out the rear shocks. Absolutely no need to pull the fuel tank for this!