The 123 has two types of side molding: the upper molding with the chrome strip and the wider lower molding. Described separately below.

1. The upper molding uses the round red button clips. Don't plan to reuse these clips. Perf. Products sells them for $.40 ea. You will need 58 red button clips. To remove the trim, I used a cheap steak knife and slid it under the trim close to a clip from the bottom side and pry outward. That way if you notch the trim it will be on the less visible under side. You'll see that the rubber is thicker on the bottom side also. The male part pops out and the red button usually stays in the car for you to remove later with needle nose pliers. This level of trim goes around the back and has a screw fastener just above the tail light. The matching piece that goes across the trunk lid is fastened by about 5 screws. All screws are in the trunk.

2. The lower molding (rocker molding) comes off easier. Leave these clips on the car when it is painted. The clips are white plastic and all of mine stayed on the car and will be used again. I had some new ones on hand in case I broke some. The long door pieces have a bolt on the rear end and a metal spring clip on the front end. The bolt is accessible from inside the door. After removing the nut just hook your fingers under the molding and pull outwards. The molding pops loose from the clips.

3. The gutter trim is pinched on and requires the most care and patience. The top rubber part should not be separated from the aluminum pinch part. Start by removing three screws along the windshield. Use two thin flathead screwdrivers to squeeze in and lift up with out bending the aluminum. Leapfrog the screwdrivers about two inches at a time. When you have this long piece off, you can easily remove the plastic "ear" that's about 15 inches long and has three reuseable clips. It will be dirty and faded. Wash it and paint it semi-flat black. To remove the funny looking swirl piece, carefully pry out the piece that is painted. Start with the narrow front end and separate it toward the rear. Once this small painted piece is off, you will see two screws. I had these pieces painted separately.

4. Take off the bumpers (very simple) and you will see how to to remove all the bumper rubber. I used floor ramps so I had a little more room to work. The grill, headlight surrounds, and turn signals are easy. I took the interior triangles off the mirrors and removed the mirrors (3 screws) after driving to the shop. I removed the (under) tail light trim and all but two ea. of the screws that hold the tail lights. At the shop I did not unplug the tail lights; just unscrewed them and laid them in the trunk.

5. Wipers are easy and the air intake grilles can be removed without damaging the rivets, if you are careful. Punch the square peg down and through the rivet. There are eight rivets. Lift out the grilles and gather your pegs for reuse. However, Perf. Products has the rivets for $.50 ea.

6. 300D and TURBODIESEL emblems. These are very hard to remove without bending. 300D has three male clips that mate with three tiny rubber button clips in holes. TURBODIESEL has four. The rubber buttons are $1.00 ea. at the dealer. I removed my emblems by sliding a length of safety wire under next to the male clip and carefully pulling back. Pull on each clip a little at a time moving from one to the other. If you pull the first one out completely it will surely bend the piece. Fortunately, the MB star emblem in the center bolts on.

Note: After removing the grille, remember to make sure your hood pull tongue is out of the way when you slam the hood down or you will find it in pieces under the car.

This is more info. than you asked for but maybe it will help someone.

__________________
Bruce

73 220D (never left Germany)
81 300D (totaled)
84 300D (Purchased '03, sold '17)
85 300SD (purchased 10/01/03)