As the last two threads already mentioned: the dash cluster has to come out to replace the bulbs and the steering wheel is way to close to the dash cluster.
It is possible to get the dash cluster out without removing the steering wheel (watch out for the top of the rear steering wheel and the bottom of the dash cluster), but it is normally safer to remove the steering wheel.
Remove lower dash panel, remove the airbag, remove the steering wheel, and push out the dash cluster from behind. don't turn the ignition key as long as the airbag or the dash cluster is disconnected, it will end you up with an illuminated SRS light that has to be reset by the dealer (not a problem, but a fuss).
If you decide to exchange a bulb, you better change all the illumination bulbs. 4 bulbs for the illumination of the dash cluster (2 different type of bulbs) and three bulbs for the LCD displays (every LCD display has its own bulb).
with a minor 600+k