In addition to MTI valuable advice I can tell you what difficulties I encountered when we did that job on my 300TE. In order to disconnect the driveshaft you'l have to loosen the big nut at the support bearing. For this you'll need unusual large wrenches, 41mm and 36mm, I believe. I bought cheaper and slightly smaller standard size wrenches from the local hardware store and ground them to the correct metric size. The rear flex disc was bonded onto the driveshaft and the diff - the air chisel was great to separate them. Watch out for the fuel line, disconnect it before lowering the subframe, at least that was important on my 300TE - I do not know for sure about the sedan. Links are easy whith the subframe out of the car. Check for the correct orientation of the bolts which is not intuitive but may matter in the future in case you want to tighten loosen them with the subframe mounted. It is easier to tighten all links with the subframe still out of the car. Just make sure the axles are horizontal relative to the subframe in order to simulate load. Control arm bushings were the most difficult. I finally had to cut the outer bolt of the control arm and also the control arm itself in order to remove it. I bought new control arms (about 60$ each). I also bought the Baum tool to remove/install the rear ball joint. The subframe mounts were were hard to get out - we finally burnt them. A good puller may have worked too. The diff mounts need proper orientation vertically. We pressed the old ones out by pressing the new ones in using a cheap harbour freight ball joint press. Also this may be the moment to do some rust prevention (POR15?) on the subframe.
Good luck! Bruno

__________________
_
1992 300TE 160 kmiles