Thanks for the info Pat, I will have to find the right wrench for the tool box as all mine are too thick, both metric and imperial.

The good news is I managed to get the master cylinder out and hour or so ago using a miniature vise grip on the bolt inside by the brake pedal - my wife can't help and is out tonight with her friends, so it makes things all that much easier.

The outside is a bit pitted with rust, but nothing too bad. I had the most trouble in the end with the brake line that is in the 7/8 o'clock position. It has, on mine, a different attachment than the rest for some reason, the larger nut is attached to a medium nut, then to the smaller one on the end of the brake line similar to the others that screw directly in to the master cylinder. The only way I was able to get the MC off in the end was to unscrew it from the nut which was a little difficult, but it worked in the end. I have now cleaned the master cylinder out, and looked into the bore, it measures 15/16" which is a good thing, since that is what the kit is that is coming. The inside looks clean, without any rust pitting. The seals look OK, not sure what led to the failure, I think it still may be the booster, although I am going to do the bypass as you suggested for now. I will clean the inside of the MC with a little 1500 grit, then rebuild the thing, whilst cleaning the outside with a heavier sand paper, and maybe some of that anti rust goop.

Whislt I am doing this, is it worth looking at the MC for the clutch as well? I looked inside there for the first time (the clutch pedal does not come all the way back on its own) and noticed the fluid was clear. Not sure what is in there, but the reservoir was full. I think it may be the slave, which is OK, since I have a replacement. What fluid should be used in the clutch reservoir for the hydraulics, and also, I assume that I should be using Dot 4 for the brakes? Will keep you all posted on the progress, and also the removal, draining, and mothballing of the booster, if I figure that is the problem after fixing the brake MC. If the booster still works, great, but if not, then I am not going to go with the $800 rebuild, since I only paid slightly more for the car after an estate sale a while back.