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Old 10-28-2005, 07:57 PM
bennett bennett is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Utah
Posts: 414
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
There are questions that remain when I read this.

1) If you pulled off the main vacuum line to the booster and you replaced it with a "direct setup", please describe, ??
I used original MB steel connections off anothr vac line

2) If the vacuum shutoff is not functioning, you need to find and correct the vacuum leak that causes the ignition switch to go without vacuum.
The IP shutoff mechanism works perfect if I attached a small vac line and suck a small amount.. she shuts the IP right down. I did this to isolate the key away from the booster to check vac leaks.

When you properly correct the original cause of no vacuum to the shutoff, I'm confident that the booster will function properly.
I am getting vac to teh IP shutoff via teh key... it is just not pulling enough.. sometime she shuts off and other times not. Yhere are only 2 brown lines coming from the (key) IP shutoff .. one into the key from the IP shutoff and one out to the tee in the main vac line. I feel the booster is robbing the vac thus creating a no shutoff condition.


If you are positive that the booster is getting vacuum (which I am not), then put a T in the line to the booster and monitor a vacuum gauge in the setup and report back.
answer:

I am positive I am getting 20 hg vac from the pump... I pulled the new hose off the booster and put my vac gauge on teh new line going direct to the vac pump =20HG and it held after shutoff as well.
Checked the same way with the original plastic hard line with the TEE and pulled full vac.
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