WVO boost pump? What should I use??? - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

a2t · #46 12-09-2006, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WD8CDH

Paul,

The 5/16 lines are not a problem. You cut off the existing lines about 1/2" past the hose barb and slip the 3/8" lines over the old line stubs.

This is what Frybrid suggested. However, on my OM603 (1987 300D turbo), the clear hard lines measure about .250 OD. At the barb, they measure right at about 5/16 OD. You are telling me to slip a .375 ID line over a .250 OD line? Ridiculous. I dont know if my OM603 is a bastard child or what, but EVERY port on the vehicle diesel system within the engine requires 5/16. You could try to clamp 3/8 down, but in my opinion it wouldnt be right. Why not just use 5/16? Again, I realize the 1987 300D turbo OM603 was only sold in the US for 2 yrs, so perhaps what you and frybrid suggest work for every other model Mercedes, just not mine. It would be my luck..

I wouldnt say the Cons outweighed the Pros, there were just more problems than I expected. I run a small business in my spare time, and when someone has a question for me Im usually responding in 12 hours or less. Then again, I probably dont sell 1/100th what Frybrid sells, and nothing I sell is anywhere near as complicated. But I still cant get over the hose clamps they supplied for the 3/8...those things are laying all over my backyard now, once I gave up on them and ripped them out after 10 minutes of trying to get them on, they went flying!

WD8CDH · #47 12-11-2006, 10:05 AM

Hi Paul,

Either your vehicle is different from normal or the 603 is different from all of the 85 and older MB diesels that I have seen and converted. The 240D and 300D's that I have converted gave a snug fit to 3/8" i.d. fuel line over the stub of factory line.

If I was in your situation, I still would not go down to 1/4". I would get a 1 inch length of 3/8"o.d. by whatever i.d. was needed to fit the barb and still use the 3/8" fuel line.

a2t · #48 12-13-2006, 09:03 AM

The OM603 is different.

But it works fine with 5/16 line. Its installed now, not leaking, running great. Im not concerned with reduction in diameter - recall the factory clear hard lines OD is only .250 so their ID is more like .200. 5/16 is plenty big ID.

Im done *****ing about it. I was just expecting a kit tailored to my vehicle, they made a couple mistakes, no big deal. I cant say much for how the owner of that company treated me, suffice to say it was not how you would expect to be treated for paying $1,800 for all this.

The kit however works as advertised, it is nice quit paying Exxon, thats for sure!

Here is some good pics and write up of installation :
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6290

Quote:

Originally Posted by WD8CDH

Hi Paul,

Either your vehicle is different from normal or the 603 is different from all of the 85 and older MB diesels that I have seen and converted. The 240D and 300D's that I have converted gave a snug fit to 3/8" i.d. fuel line over the stub of factory line.

If I was in your situation, I still would not go down to 1/4". I would get a 1 inch length of 3/8"o.d. by whatever i.d. was needed to fit the barb and still use the 3/8" fuel line.

alfredo · #49 12-30-2006, 04:05 AM

Pulling VO by the IP only is hard work on the pump. Some people do not give it a thought but I think you should.

Visit **************.com and check out their EBP (Electric Boost Pump). Here is the part number:

SKU: GOC-DTCFBPU

Good Luck

If you should buy anything from them, please mention to them that Alfred Odom in Wichita, Kansas referred you.

asnowsquall · #50 12-30-2006, 06:16 AM

One of the biggest challenges I see with a WVO lift pump is that the driver motor will get hot, naturally some of this depends on the system and where its located. I built my own using a Chrysler Oil pump and a wiper motor. It was a bit freaky looking but worked well in my Suburban for about 4,000 miles. I would not recommend the Holley Blue pump. Some people use them and some get some mileage out of them, but not a good choice IMO. The oil in my tank on the Suburban never really got that warm on short trips and this pump I build would pump veggy at 30 degrees! Check out the 4 pages of info here, its pretty cool and I will do it again on my 300TD "someday" http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/166102879?r=166102879#166102879

Dave

Diesel Dan · #51 03-02-2007, 11:26 AM

I've tried Facet Posiflo pump, which burned out quickly, and a Walbro FRD 1-1 pump which lasted a bit longer, but still burned out prematurely. I mounted the pumps in the engine compartment because the Greasecar hose-in-hose design does not lend itself to mounting a pump near the tank. I know pumps are supposed to push, not pull, and they don't like the heat of the WVO.

I'm disappointed in the Walbro, for which I had high hopes, and paid like $80. It was touted as being capable of pulling the fuel; but it did not survive.

Now what?! Has anyone used a pump in the engine compartment for any length of time? Is there a pump that works?

cgunderm · #52 03-02-2007, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jmana

I second the motion to loop the return, or do what I did and put a tee in the return and a tee in the filter outlet line, and then connect the 2 tee's together. I have noticed that the engine has a lot more pep, plus the oil gets up to temp quicker. The only downside is if you get air in your lines, you're kind of screwed.

I second this. Looping is key. I had air in the lines after first installing the system (one grease car, the other one, in the wagon, home-made on a greasel basis), but once it is out, no problems. Absolutely low maintenance. The greasecar filter with the coolant coil around it is excellent, the greasel filter is **** (racor) and I threw it out and fabricated my own coil and use the same filter as grease car on the wagon. The racor is way too big to heat up. I have a napa low pressure pump in both systems, before the filters, on separate switches so i can turn them off. they have lasted for 10s of thousands of miles and are fine. they make a difference once the filter is not so clean anymore, after about 3000 miles, but when it's new, they make no difference. the systems are completely low maintenance, I disagree with people saying that you need to use products and clean out tank etc. It's key to have really clean WVO. I don't even filter it until after letting it settle for 3 to 4 weeks. And I already have good sources that prefilter the stuff in the restaurant. The oil has to be crystal clear, transparent, which is will be after settling. Throw the rest out. No clouds anywhere. I use the vegtherm on both cars, temp is very important, I loop the return on both cars, gets it up to temp quicker and less work for the pumps. The filters are completely wrapped with copper coil and have an additional electric heating pad, perhaps overkill, but hot filters are key as well.

Christian

cgunderm · #53 03-02-2007, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel Dan

Now what?! Has anyone used a pump in the engine compartment for any length of time? Is there a pump that works?

Precisely the facet posiflow has worked great for me. In the wagon, I've had it for 2 years now, and about 30000 miles. Not a problem. I have it right before the WVO filter. Doesn't seem to mind the heat of the WVO, nor the sucking... In the 1985 sedan, I've had it for about a year and maybe 10000 miles. I only added it as a precautionary measure and for the heck of it and have it on a separate switch, doesn't seem to make too much of a difference. It's a greasecar system, which I've had for about 50000 miles in that car, and 40000 without an external pump. WVO quality is the key to it all. And temperature. VegTherm is great to boost the systems....

WD8CDH · #54 03-02-2007, 12:39 PM

While I have had good luck with the NAPA P74017 pump, on my latest conversion, I am using the stock lift pump for WVO and the electric lift pump for diesel. I think it will last forever that way.

Paulc66t · #55 03-02-2007, 01:19 PM

I have been using an electronic pump I bought from JC Whitney. I think the brand is Faucet. I have seen it on Ebay as well with a different manufacturers label. I think it is about $30-$40.This is being used in a 1981 300D with a home made WVO system. It has not given me any trouble after close to a year of service

Diesel Dan · #56 03-02-2007, 02:47 PM

So what am I doing wrong? I tried the Facet Posiflo, and it died on me. I located it right where the pex line emerges in the engine compartment, so it sucked from the tank and pushed through the solenoid and to the veg filter. Sounds like the same setup as others, no?

Rick H · #57 03-02-2007, 11:22 PM

I`ve been using a cheap Facet for over 3 yrs still going strong. It`s in the back at the tank .I also have a return line to the tank.I started out with the pump up front in the engine compartment and a looped return. I had a lot of problems with air, bogging down on hills.Since moving the pump and running the return line to the tank no problems.

alfredo · #58 03-07-2007, 01:19 AM

Go to www.**************.com and check out the below item: It is a little pricy but it should more than meet your needs.

Diesel Engine Electric Auxilary Fuel Boost Pump Installation Kit

a2t · #59 03-11-2007, 09:39 AM

Yeah that one looks pretty good - anyone used it?

http://**************.com/node/2133

[img]http://**************.com/system/files/images/123boostpump.jpg[/img]

(from their website)
OTHER APPLICATIONS: This pump also works great when running Biodiesel or SVO / WVO. It can really help get that thick fuel moving to the engine compartment. If you plan to run a lot of biodiesel then we recommend you install biodiesel grade hose (not included in this kit). We can provide that for a nominal additional cost. Email us for specifics

I tell ya, I just looped the return on my frybrid system. Wow. Back to under 10 sec 0-60mph times. I blipped the throttle down at 65mph, 5-10 sec later it was screaming past 90 on veg, 3/4 throttle. Much improved over non-looped. So, adding a pump will prob do same thing.