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  #1  
Old 10-15-2007, 08:52 PM
minimike
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: LI, NY
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straight wvo ?

What's the concensus when you run straight wvo filtered a bit, but not titrated? I've got a buddy with 5 diesels who runs straight wvo, and thins it in the colder months here in the northeast about 50% with dino diesel.
Single tank, In the tank mix. No problems so far except a clogged filter occasionally. I've also taken his lead and run my 3 diesels on different mixes of wvo and dino. NO problems here. Single tank. etc.
Mike

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  #2  
Old 10-15-2007, 09:04 PM
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You're confused. Titration has to do with biodiesel, not straight vegetable oil

You should not even be thinking about filtering "a bit". You want to filter A LOT. Filter down to as low a micron level as you can, at LEAST 10 micron.

Singletank unheated is asking for trouble. Its your car and your call but you will eventually ruin your IP and engine.
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2007, 09:10 PM
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OK...first 'titrating' is used to determine the catalyst required in processing BioDiesel. It has nothing to do with running WVO.
To run straight WVO, it needs to be well filtered, and dewatered. The second requirement is that it needs to be heated to at least 180F to be injected properly. Cold WVO just will not spray properly to completely burn and it will coke up the injectors to really screw up the spray pattern. Other problems include having the WVO bypass the rings and contaminate the engine oil (and in some cases, actually overfilling the oil pan.
You will also overwork the fuel pumps since they are designed to pump more viscous fluids and not fuel as thick as WVO or VO.

If you are going to run WVO, you need to have a two tank/heated system. Do a search here, using Google and you will also find a viscosity chart of fuel verses temperature.
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  #4  
Old 10-15-2007, 10:04 PM
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Check out Biodiesel.infopop for more, lots more information. Steve
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2007, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by probear View Post
To run straight WVO, it needs to be well filtered, and dewatered. The second requirement is that it needs to be heated to at least 180F to be injected properly. Cold WVO just will not spray properly to completely burn and it will coke up the injectors to really screw up the spray pattern. Other problems include having the WVO bypass the rings and contaminate the engine oil (and in some cases, actually overfilling the oil pan.
You will also overwork the fuel pumps since they are designed to pump more viscous fluids and not fuel as thick as WVO or VO.

If you are going to run WVO, you need to have a two tank/heated system. Do a search here, using Google and you will also find a viscosity chart of fuel verses temperature.
I completely agree. Single tanking it is straight up lazy.
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2007, 12:36 AM
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I have been running the 50/50 mix for the last few thousand miles. It has dropped to about 40F here on overnights and I have had no trouble starts.
However, I put my car into storage before the snow flies and it gets cold.

If you are going to mix it, filter it well.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2007, 08:00 AM
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.
Hello All

I wonder if he means checking the ph of the oil.

I know some people who get very acidic oil.

They check the ph level and mist wash (water wash) the oil,
if the ph is off center by much.

Thanks
RichC

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  #8  
Old 10-16-2007, 09:09 AM
minimike
 
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If you do the bed sheet filter, and mix 50-50 with dino, will you still have the head coking problem?
I guess I'm wondering what steps are crucial to minimize the damage to the engine and components.
Mike
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2007, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by minimike1 View Post
I guess I'm wondering what steps are crucial to minimize the damage to the engine and components.
Heating before it even goes through the injection pump, 180*F minimum.

Last edited by ForcedInduction; 10-16-2007 at 09:20 AM.
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2007, 09:19 AM
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I've been mulling an idea...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichC View Post
.
Hello All

I wonder if he means checking the ph of the oil.

I know some people who get very acidic oil.

They check the ph level and mist wash (water wash) the oil,
if the ph is off center by much.

Thanks
RichC

.
To get the same results. Perk the WVO through some unwaxed ammonium nitrate. It's a weak base, it's cheap, should react with the free fatty acids...I have not tried it yet but I think the catch is going to be titrating then 'fine tuning' (time, volume, etc.) to get to pH 7.0.
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  #11  
Old 10-16-2007, 10:46 AM
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Running WVO in a single tank setup can cause two issues. One is gelling, the other is wax. The veggie oil is much thicker than petro diesel. Even when it's blended you can have gelling problems. I don't worry so much about what is in the tank, there is enough volume to help slow gelling, but your fuel lines and IP don't hold much volume so they are the most prone to gelling, and that is were the fuel is when you start your car up. So you take the risk of starting your car up on thick fuel, which makes the car really hard to start, as well as gumming up injectors, and the IP, and piston rings. Gumming up the rings will eventually let veggie oil into your oil. Which will lead to polymerization of your oil. Which happens instantly once you hit a certain level of veggie oil in your motor oil.
Waz is another issue that comes from blending petro diesel and veggie oil. You can get wax settling out, which will cause filter clogs.
Do it right and go for a two tank system. This way you can avoid the issues that have been stated others and myself.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2007, 02:12 PM
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I ran veg oil mixed with regular unleaded for 20K+- miles but I was on the Gulf Coast. It got down below 20F a couple times but not consistantly cold. Clogged filters were my only problem.

If you read about it and look at the design of the combustion chamber in the 61X engine you will see that it would be difficult to hurt the engine with veg oil.

Heating oil in lines will make carbon deposits and sludge a problem there.

It will be very difficult to get past the sales pitches on the internet and get find real info. Many of the people who post on this subject will either sellers or dedicated consumers, not many qualified do it yourselfers.

Learn to make your car run right on diesel before you try to run alternative fuels. If you have problems you have to be able to tell if it is because of the fuel.
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2007, 02:42 PM
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yeah, but what about pintle damage?
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  #14  
Old 10-17-2007, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
yeah, but what about pintle damage?
I have seen no problem with pintle damage but pintle function is important. Most pintle holes are clogged and so the fuel is not injected on the heater ball in the chamber. think??
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  #15  
Old 10-17-2007, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Sean Watts View Post
To get the same results. Perk the WVO through some unwaxed ammonium nitrate. It's a weak base, it's cheap, should react with the free fatty acids...I have not tried it yet but I think the catch is going to be titrating then 'fine tuning' (time, volume, etc.) to get to pH 7.0.
.
Hello C Sean Watts

Sounds good, I am a Mad Scientist already.

At least that is what I put under "occupation" on forms I have to fill out.

Ordering mass quantities of ammonium nitrate (bomb fuel) might make me
the next contestant on the patriot act game.

Secret prisons, water boarding, torture, they scare me.

But still a good idea.

Thank you
RichC

.

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