I'm only assuming that the haze is injector/timing related because it ran clean when at temp up until I made the mistake of shutting down on oil.

I do need to check valve adjustment and timing chain stretch and plan to do so in the next day or so.

Thanks

Ordered a 10 plate fphe that will be mounted very close to the IP. That should be here sometime this week... hopefully will get the injectors pulled and cleaned this week and be back on the road.

Received my heat shields from peachparts... Pulled the injectors and didn't find much out of the ordinary. The heat shields were almost sooted shut and injector number 4 was spotless and wet with what looked/smelled like clean motor oil... Not sure what to make of it since the crank case oil is black as coal currently...

Anyways.. Gonna pull em apart tomorrow and give them a good cleaning. Hope to be back up and running tomorrow.

Injectors are clean and back together... hopefully will be up and running tonight.

Before...





During...




Done..





Cleaned (soaked in brake cleaner for 20-30min each, wire brushed, cleaned again with brake clean and lubed with wd-40)... lapped all of the sealing surfaces on flat steel with 2500 grit and wd-40... brass brushed the needle and nozzles... We'll see what happens.

-Chris

It's alive again! Runs smoother then it has since I bought it. May or may not have a few small leaks... Gonna have to wait until I can degrease the engine bay again.

I'm fairly happy with the $10 investment.

Still need to adjust the valves and bump the timing up a bit... But its back on track. I also bought 2 more sets of heat shields to have on hand.

My fphe should be here tomorrow and hopefully I'll get time to plumb it up.

Anyways...

Heat exchanger installed.. Not the cleanest install I've ever done (it'll get attention this winter while the car is down).. But it should work.



Moved the battery all the way forward... Just enough room to squeeze in the fphe.

I should have time to finish wiring the injector line heaters tomorrow and it should be good to go. I'll probably stick something between the fphe and the battery to keep the heat transfer to a minimum.

Anyways... Hopefully this works out a bit better. We'll see.

So far, so good. 10 minutes of running/driving made for a hot to touch filter housing.

Still need to wire in the line heaters... Perhaps tonight.

Is the heat exchanger before or after the lift pump? Still the stock lift pump? And stock fuel lines? I've wondered about using the return line as a supply, and just looping the return before the lift pump. A bubble catcher / bleed port would be required though

__________________
1978 300D, 373,000km 617.912, 711.113 5 speed, 7.5mm superpump, HX30W turbo...many, many years in the making....
1977 280> 300D - 500,000km+ (to be sold...)
1984 240TD>300TD 121,000 miles, *gone*
1977 250 parts car
1988 Toyota Corona 2.0D *gone*
1975 FJ45>HJ45
1981 200>240D (to be sold...)
1999 Hyundai Lantra 1.6 *gone*
1980s Lansing Bagnall FOER 5.2 Forklift (the Mk2 engine hoist)
2001 Holden Rodeo 4JB1T 2WD

The heat exchanger is before the lift pump. The lift pump is stock that I rebuilt a month ago... works great. These piston style pumps will push darn near any fuel type that isn't solid... lol

I was having issues recently with the oil supply side of the system... which I originally though was an injector issue... turned out to be a line issue all along as it was starving for fuel.

I'm not sure if the stock line plugged up or what... but last night I drained the main (oil) tank and pulled the tank strainer thinking it would be clogged... but it was clean. Then I decided to just delete the questionables and ran a new 3/8" supply line from the tank to the valve.

The looped return comes off the filter head with the cigar hose... goes to a "T" which has a petcock on one side and a ball valve on the other. The ball valve side is then "T"d into the suction side of the lift pump. Now anytime I change filters, etc... I shut the ball valve and open the petcock and it acts as a normal return allowing quick/easy air purge... shut the petcock while fuel is still flowing and then open the ball valve completing the loop.

A much less messier way of doing it would be to use a 2nd ball valve with a hose barb on it instead of the petcock... that way you could reclaim any fuel that was lost during the purge instead of dumping it on the ground... but this is what I had laying around.

I very well may change it down the road.

Anyways, Finally got to drive the car a good bit today after all of the changes and I must say it made a difference. Even sitting at idle at stop lights, etc.. even for extended periods of time (I let it sit idling while I went in the gas station to grab a drink).. no haze.. no smoke... just clean/smooth idle.

Now, while under power, it still hazes a bit but it does that on diesel fuel as well but cruising down the road, there is no difference in how the car runs now between fuels. The only way you can tell is the smell.

I'm hoping to upgrade the glow plugs in the next week or 2 and see how much of a difference that makes in cold starts... I also need to adjust the fast idle knob.

Anyways, very happy with the outcome so far. Preheating the fuel certainly seems to be the ticket (even when blending).

Been a while since I've updated...

I upgraded the glow plugs and the car has been doing good. The engine in the car is tired (has been since I bought it) but still runs great on either fuel. I do all my short drives on pump diesel (my drive to work is short). On the weekends and longer drives, it warms up on pump diesel then switches to wmo.

So far, this method has worked great and kept it running smooth and starting easily. Its been in the low 30s and the car starts pretty easily with 10sec. of preglow.

Anyways... Ive got a lot of bugs to work out on the car over the winter along with new floor pans to install and some wiring to fix.... I'll keep the thread updated with any problems that come up from WMO use.

-Chris

I bought on Ebay a small 12 volt thermostat.I set it at 170 degrees,that way heaters shut off when heat exchanger worked.I also insulated lines after the line heaters.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran