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#1
11-01-2004, 09:43 AM
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Replaced my upper control arms this weekend
Thanks for all of your help. I did a lot of searching before I replaced the upper control arms on my '85 300D (123). It turned out to be a very simple job.
If anyone else decides to do theirs, I would recommend buying a Pittman arm puller at Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. However, make sure you get the one made for compact cars, not the regular one. The one for compact cars is smaller (costs about $10 instead of $15) and is the correct size for the car. I bought the larger one but was luckily still able to make it work. Now with the extra confidence I have after doing this job, I will replace my tie rod ends this upcoming weekend! Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) 
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#2
11-01-2004, 09:47 AM
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check the condition of your lower control arms too.......the bushings anyway, plus the lower ball joint. That one is a bear. I did a complete front end rebuild last week.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#3
11-01-2004, 09:57 AM
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I noticed there was a rubber boot on the bottom part of the stearing knuckle. Is that part of the lower control arm or lower ball joint? It wasn't torn so I didn't pay much attention to it and hadn't planned on replacing it. The boots on my tie rods are all split (left, right and center) so I plan on replacing them.
Scott
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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#4
11-01-2004, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
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#5
11-01-2004, 10:11 AM
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I am not sure on the 123, on the 116 I have the lower ball joint is pressed into the steering knuckle and bolts through the lower control arm. Mine weren't worn yet but the boots were split (age related not milage) so it was a matter of time. Tie rod ends were showing some play so went whole hog and did everything that was greased or was rubber. My car spent its life in AZ so your rubber might be in better shape.
True I could have gotten away with far less, but I never wanted to do it a second time. And after having done it I REALLY, REALLY hope I never have to do it again. Coil springs on these things are a real mutha to deal with. NEVER use cheap compressors, good ones struggle with them.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#6
11-01-2004, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Russ M
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#7
11-01-2004, 10:25 AM
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I don't know how long mine were split......was like that when I got them and don't know what had already gotten into the grease. But yes the boot kits are great if you catch them before they split and grease gets contaminated with whatever.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#8
11-01-2004, 10:40 AM
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Did anyone noticed uneven tire wear prior to making these repairs? If so, please describe. Thanks in advance...
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1985 300 D T - Rauchsilber (Smoke Sliver Metallic) with MB Tex Quartz 155 = Cream interior -  320K and counting!1999 E300 TD - Silver - Just got her 3-13-15 ! the 2nd '83 300SD - Brown Metallic - traded away 1985 Limo Diesel aka "Stretchy" - Sliver - Blue Int - Sold but still in Athens 1983 300SD - Brown Metallic - Sold April 2008  1982 300 D T - Royal Blue with Tan interior - Sold
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#9
11-01-2004, 10:53 AM
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Mine wasn't.....but I had visible negative camber, and could see tie rod play when under the car. Have yet to get it to be aligned. that will be later this week.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#10
11-01-2004, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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#11
11-01-2004, 11:10 AM
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Boneheaddoctor, what did you use to press the old bushings out of the lower control arm? Also, what did you use to press the new ones in?
I am thinking of doing the lower control arm bushings on my w126 in the near future and would like to know what tools to have on hand when I rent a coil spring compressor from Performance Products.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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#12
11-01-2004, 11:18 AM
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Me.... I was able to pound the old ones out.....I had to take it to a shop to have new ones pressed in. The ball joint tool at the rental shop I used had the wrong sized sleeve to fit the MB joint. Because of this the rental shop refunded me not just the money for the press they refunded me the money for the Coil spring compressor too.
In hind sight I would have bought the press and resold it used on Ebay or hear afterwards....would have been cheaper then paying the shop I took it to. Silver star motors charged me $120 just to press the joints in. I should have price shopped, sure I could have gotten a beter price at a machine shop.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#13
11-01-2004, 06:06 PM
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Maybe I was unclear, I was trying to find out what you used to remove the lower control arm bushings.
($120 for lower ball joints!! The shop I took mine to only charged $10. It only took them 10 min.)
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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