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Discouraging finding ... should I learn to weld?
I went to touch up some of the surface body rust on my 240D today and pulled the bumper off and found what's pictured below. I knew I had a lot of rust, but this is much worse than I thought. There are also a couple holes above the rear bumper that I'm guessing will reveal similar underlying disaster. I realize that on this forum a lot of guys will tell me it's a part car. I like it, I've put a lot of work into it and it's structurally pretty solid. And I don't need anyone else to tell me I'm an idiot for buying/working on this car. So, next answer.
-Since this area will be covered by the bumper cover, I thought about using a fiberglass patch, as in POR15's powermesh, along with POR15, good filler and enamel. Waste of time? Decent stop-gap? -I thought about learning to weld. My 300D also desperately needs a little rocker panel work. This 240D has other areas that could use patching. And it seems like a good skill to have. That said, I've always been scared to try, mainly because of not knowing what equipment to buy and not having anyone to help me learn. Should I take a class? Or can I just pick up some decent equipment, follow safety guidelines and play around? All my other "skills" I've learned through trial and error (woodwork, painting, sanding, etc.) but are admittedly less intimidating. Is it easy to pick up or am I right to be apprehensive? Here's the damage ... either way I'm replacing the brackets that hold the side bumper trim in place. They were shot.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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Welding is a bit more difficult a skill to pick up. Most guys that do it have gone through about a year's worth of courses and 4 years of apprenticeship. Example, if you hold the rod or wire feed too long in one area, you will create a lump that you will have to grind out... If you set the power settings too high, you'll blow holes through the panel, and if you set too low, you'll not get a decent amount of penetration, so it could fall apart later...
if you're bound and determined to learn to weld, don't start on your car. Find some scrap steel somewhere, and work at it, and learn to weld at different angles once you have learned the basics... As for a welder, lincoln makes a really good little portable wire feed welder. My friend has one, and he can get proper penetration on 1/4 inch thick steel, and it runs on household ac. If you're buying one, don't cheap out. The cheap models have poor power regulation, and other problems. The last think you want is to be finishing your final weld and have a power flare, causing a blowthrough... Oh, you'll need a grinder if you intend to weld. Avoid TIG welders until you learn how to weld with a stick welder... The type you want is called a MIG. http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Catalog/equipmentdatasheet.aspx?p=59618 You might be able to barter the price down in a shop that's having a slow year.... have fun, and post pics...
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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing. Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor '95 S320 LWB '87 300SDL '04 E500 wagon 4matic |
#3
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btw, I picked up welding really easily... Then again, I have a fast learning curve for such things...
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All it takes for evil to prevail is for good men to stand by and do nothing. Too many people tip toe through life, never attempting or doing anything great, hoping to make it safely to death... Bob Proctor '95 S320 LWB '87 300SDL '04 E500 wagon 4matic |
#4
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I've done gas welding, but new tried arc welding. I'd like to learn, though.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#5
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Learning to weld is a great idea and a skill you'll definitely use, but for the damage in the pic, I'd just get a replacement fender from a parts car.
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#6
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Mine is all on my rear quarter panels, so I would need to weld the donor pieces on to the car. I've never tried welding anything as thin as car body material.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#7
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I thought of that ... this may sound like a dumb question, but what exactly constitutes the fender in the front? I looks like it wraps all the way under the bumper (I don't see a seam) and is one with the strips under the headlights. On my 124 the fenders are very obvious panels ending at the side of the headlight.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#8
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Quote:
http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_front_fender_rr.htm
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#9
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Cool, that actually doesn't look that bad. I'm going to do some ghetto fiberglass tomorrow to hold me over for a while, but if I can find a nice pair of fenders, that would probably be an easy way to go. And with my painting skills, they will match perfectly.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#10
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Quote:
If you haven't seen my repair threads, here's some ideas for non-structural rust repair areas. http://www.peachparts.com//shopforum/showthread.php?t=231360 http://www.peachparts.com//shopforum/showthread.php?t=202295
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Chad 2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE 1998 Acura 3.0 CL OBK#44 "Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.) SOLD 1985 300TD - Red Dragon 1986 300SDL - Coda 1991 - 300TE 1995 - E320 1985 300CD - Gladys |
#11
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Wow Chad, you did an awesome job. I would be thrilled if I could end up with something that looks like that! Can you tell me more about how to use rivets? Sheet metal and JB Weld might be something I could do. Thanks for the links ... I feel much more optimistic now that I've seen someone else dive in and come out alive!
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#12
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What suprised me was how easy it was to get the hang of mig wire welding years ago. I already could stick weld but the wire feed was a walk in the park by comparison.
Just have a friend to guide you initially. Actually it is about the only sane method of welding on older car metal gauges in my opinion. In your case though there is no sane alternative over a solid junk yard replacement fender. Yes the bottom of the fender does wrap around quite a ways. |
#13
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Quote:
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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold 1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition |
#14
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I've been working really hard on this all week long and thought I'd post what I've got so far. Even though the long-term solution would be replace the fenders, I decided to play around with them a bit and see if I can at least make it look decent. After POR15 mania, I patched the bottom part with fiberglass, then JB Welded a strip of scrap metal behind it bridging the intact areas of the fender for support in the destroyed area. Around the fiberglass and metal "beam" I built up pourable putty, POR Putty and filler and then sanded it as best I could. As you can see in the pics, I didn't bother prettying up the area where the bumper will cover. I shot it with DuPont paint with my $15 gun and it didn't come out perfect, but it certainly looks better then picture No. 1 (keep in mind what the bumper will hide). I actually sprayed it again after the last pic, and it came out better blending-wise, but with runs. I hope in the next areas my painting skills improve (I have plenty to practice on!).
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#15
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WOW, that looks really good. You should be proud of yourself. You really got the body smooth near the side marker light.
just continue like that and paint the whole car, LOL....
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon 1979 280CE 225,200 miles 1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles 1976 240D 190,000 miles 1979 300TD 220,000 GONE but not forgotten 1976 300D 195,300 miles 1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg |
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