Rust Examination - 82' 300SD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #1 05-31-2010, 02:13 PM

Hey everyone, I was going to do a brake flush on my one 300SD. However it seems that its a bit rusty. I took some pictures and would like to get your thoughts. We were hoping to get a bit more out of the car however it would seem that opposite it true.

I'd like to find a good chassis with decent interior to put the drive train it. The motor and trans are solid and relatively young.

Pics:

http://imgur.com/a/4WNU2/green_car039s_rust

If anyone know of a good chassis with no rust and a good interior let me know. Its my dad's car so the decision will ultimately be his.

-Kris

JB3 · #2 05-31-2010, 02:43 PM

looks like the rust is limited only to the rear subframe, driveshaft, and the exhaust pipe. Id tap around the subframe looking for thin areas with a ball peen, then I would coat that sucker with POR15, same with the drive shaft, and drive it.

That car does not look like its ready to be sent to the junkyard in the sky just yet.

Sev · #3 05-31-2010, 02:46 PM

that rust isn't too bad. you can get a sandblasting kit from harbor freight, put the car on rhino ramps, and go to work on it, then finish off with some basic rustoleum spray paint or something more professional like por-15. i wouldn't get rid of your car based on what's seen in the pics. my basic rule is, if you can stand up on the floor board of the cabin and it can support all your weight, you're good to go.

pawoSD · #4 05-31-2010, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Hey everyone, I was going to do a brake flush on my one 300SD. However it seems that its a bit rusty. I took some pictures and would like to get your thoughts. We were hoping to get a bit more out of the car however it would seem that opposite it true.

I'd like to find a good chassis with decent interior to put the drive train it. The motor and trans are solid and relatively young.

Pics:

http://imgur.com/a/4WNU2/green_car039s_rust

If anyone know of a good chassis with no rust and a good interior let me know. Its my dad's car so the decision will ultimately be his.

-Kris

You're kidding right?

BridelessRacing · #5 05-31-2010, 04:57 PM

I wish mine was that rust free.

JEBalles · #6 05-31-2010, 05:16 PM

Yeah, that's rusty... for southern california. For NE Ohio, however, I agree with pawoSD.

JamesDean · #7 05-31-2010, 05:21 PM

Well this is good news. I'll try to get more pictures of other areas. I'm no expert on these matters which is why i turn to you guys. I figure someone seen bad rust on these cars.

vstech · #8 05-31-2010, 05:47 PM

that pic with the lines is a tad scary, I'd plan on replacing the fuel and brake lines soon. otherwise, that's an awesome condition vehicle.
very very very little rust pictured. simple cleaning and painting will fix it right up.
how does the engine compartment look?

JamesDean · #9 05-31-2010, 06:31 PM

Alright, many many more pics are on the way.

I'm trying to gauge the life of the vehicle as there are things on it that I'd like to fix/replace but if the car isnt gonna last long then theres no point.

Items that need repaired:
1) doors creak a lot and are to take effort to close
2) defroster vents never close, pod is probably bad
3) new springs, car rides like a brick, has new shocks thou
4) rear window needs pulled and resealed
5) guide rod needs repair/replaced, horrid clunking
6) new front seats (I have a set that doesnt match--palomino i think--I'm gonna install with memory!-- scored them for $40!)

Other than that the drive train is solid, she gets 26mpg consistently on my dad's daily commute on back roads to the GM Complex.

Here are the pics:
http://imgur.com/a/5FX1Q/green_rust_2

Let me know what you think about the lifespan of the car and the repairs I want to make. With 4 MB's I'm trying to limit my spending.

My estimate puts those repairs (parts only) at $500 or so. Not including the rear window.

vstech · #10 05-31-2010, 06:57 PM

all those repairs are simple, the door for instance, is a simple grease, and replace the door checks.
the guide rods are simple to replace the bushings. the mounts don't ususually need replacement.

JEBalles · #11 05-31-2010, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

all those repairs are simple, the door for instance, is a simple grease, and replace the door checks.
the guide rods are simple to replace the bushings. the mounts don't ususually need replacement.

I disagree. Look at the jack points and seams.

It's generally not worth it to worry about replaceable things (although if you have the time, you can save yourself the eventually replacement by treating it). The body, however, needs attention. I don't like the look of the jack points. How long have you had the car? Some of the seams are going to need to be cut out and replaced. Not immediate issues, but they should be addressed as soon as possible if you want to keep the car.

JamesDean · #12 05-31-2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

I disagree. Look at the jack points and seams.

It's generally not worth it to worry about replaceable things (although if you have the time, you can save yourself the eventually replacement by treating it).

What are you referring to specifically?

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

The body, however, needs attention. I don't like the look of the jack points.

I agree. I dont like them either. I'm not sure what one does with those though...

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

How long have you had the car? Some of the seams are going to need to be cut out and replaced. Not immediate issues, but they should be addressed as soon as possible if you want to keep the car.

We've had the car for about four years now. We'd like to keep it as long as possible. Its my dad's daily driver.

I agree with you on the seams. Is that generally a difficult task or expensive task? I am going to take the car down to the local body shop here and get an estimate on the rear window repair so I'll just have them go over the car and whatnot.

It looks like most of the rust is on the rear subframe and control arms. There is very little heavy rust on the front part of the car.

vstech · #13 05-31-2010, 09:10 PM

all the subframe rust is very minor.
the problem you are going to have is in the body tubes, I'd remove the trim coating around the jack holes, and use a wire wheel to clear away all the rust and see how deep it goes.
all the seams need similar treatment, and sealing with por-15, then painting. any body shop is going to recommend serious money to repair. those body tubes with holes in them could be rotted from the inside though. I'd pull the rust down, and look in with a flashlight and see how bad they are. then repair and treat the repair with Por-15

JamesDean · #14 06-01-2010, 01:48 PM

Just for comparison. Here are some underbody pics of my other Mercedes:

w126 - 1982 300SD - 141k Miles
http://imgur.com/a/20ZZ4/gold_car_underbody

w126 - 1989 420SEL - 208k Miles
http://imgur.com/a/W5W0Z/black_car_underbody

I couldnt get the camera under my w201..its too low. lol.

JamesDean · #15 06-01-2010, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

all the subframe rust is very minor.
the problem you are going to have is in the body tubes, I'd remove the trim coating around the jack holes, and use a wire wheel to clear away all the rust and see how deep it goes.
all the seams need similar treatment, and sealing with por-15, then painting. any body shop is going to recommend serious money to repair. those body tubes with holes in them could be rotted from the inside though. I'd pull the rust down, and look in with a flashlight and see how bad they are. then repair and treat the repair with Por-15

Body tubes? You mean near the jack points?

I'm gonna take the car to the body shop for the rear window and I might as well inquire about the body tubes and mediablasting the rear subframe...