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Minor Rust Repair
1985 300D W123.
I noticed some rust through starting at the left rear quarter just in back of the wheel. A rather common spot on the 123. Trying to figure out if it's something I should try to fix or see if I can find a shop. I'd want to dremel tool the area to get the edges to clean metal. I'd then rust paint the area w either POR-15 or something better that might be mentioned here. Since it's no bigger than 3 inches, I was thinking to try to fiberglass patch the area, sand it smooth, prime and paint using rattle can paint, clear coat it and let it go at that. My other choice is to find a shop that'll do it right for me, maybe metal. I am betting it is due to a leaking antenna seal that let water in as the rest of the car is clean. Furthermore, I'm thinking this repair along with some touching up of rust prone areas shouldn't cost more than 5 to 800 dollars. Is that reasonable? Do I need to consult a specialty shop or should any decent body shop be able to handle this kind of repair? I don't mind spending some bucks to keep this car pretty but it is after all, just another W123.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
#2
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Sadly, $500 to $800 may not buy you as much as you think and (at least around here) many shops aren't interested in doing proper rust fix work anymore. In fact I hear that the newest shop course graduates can't work with metal anymore to do patches. Like many of the new generation of mechanics, they are now only trained to replace parts, not fix them.
Also there is the issue of what sort of shape your paint is in overall. Fixing and spot-painting two or three areas may leave your car looking like a quilt if the painter can't mix up a good match to your old paint. Once you get to three or more rust areas the shop may recommend you simply do a "complete" and have it done with.
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#3
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That's a lot of money to spend for a few rust spots on these cars. The problem is that once you find one, you find many more! I would try to learn from this forum or others, and buy some tools and try doing it yourself. Worst case, it looks good to fair. Then you can drive it a few more years and maybe paint it all at that point.....if you still have it
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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on... |
#4
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I am tempted to try it myself. The area's not so bad that a metal patch is required, fiberglass would work fine. I found out that the spot came from the antenna leaking and am fixing the cause today by simply removing the antenna and patching the hole for now with tape and some silicone sealer. I can't find any other issues with rust on the thing other than chips that need some touching up. I may try paintscratch.com to see how well the mixing they do works. Hey, it's a great car for the money, I don't want to turn it into something I'm afraid to use. I'll work on extreme preservation and fixing things before bigger issues evolve. I'm hoping to get 5 years out of the car which really shouldn't be too hard. As long as I don't go too nuts, I'll even break even at sale time.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. |
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