Removal of rear windshield on W126 - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #16 01-25-2006, 10:49 AM

You need to cut the gasket in order to pull the rear window. So re using the gasket is just not possible.

Body shop labor rates in my area range from $65-$100 an hour. Since they need to pull some interior panals to disconnect the heater connections, and remove that pita trim, I'd figure 3-4 hours labor for any shop.

Rust is another tricky area, any good body shop will want to cut it out and weld in new metal. The shop I took it do does awsome work and flat out refused to do it any other way. They are a very high quality resto shop that doesn't mess around or put their name on anything sub par.

The grinding it down and painting it just buys you time. Since I did this job last year I noticed rust poping up again.

So this year when I paint my car I'll pull the rear window again and see what I find.

One option I am considering is cutting that sill section out of another car and welding it into mine. I am pissed because my 420 parts car I sent out to the junker was rust free under the window. I should have cut it out I wasn't thinking!!

TX76513 · #17 01-25-2006, 10:55 AM

Hatty, I didn't cut my gasket

to remove it. Take your time you can get it out. It will take more time to get the gasket seperated from the body than it will to re-install everything (once you figure out how to re-install)

MS Fowler · #18 01-25-2006, 04:50 PM

I agree, cutting of the gasket MAY not be necesary. If its old and brittle, of course you will have to cut it, but you wouldn't even want to reuse one in that condition.
I needed to replace the glass in my '82 300SD that I had removed for painting. I cut the gasket on that one so I wouldn't distort the trim. It distorted anyway, and would not go in. I ended up cracking the glass trying to make it all fit, including a new seal.
Then I went to my local auto junk yard. their fixed preice on rear glass is $40 if you remove it. Heck, I wanted to remove it myself. I found a later W126 with a good seal; no crack, and quite supple. After removing the trim and unscrewing the heater connections, ran a flat-bladded screwdriver all around the inner edge of the seal to break the bond. Then I pried one of the upper corners over the lip in the opening, and worked the edge across the top of the glass, prying a little and pushing a little, Once I had a good start, I put my feet on the glass, right at the edge, and pushed while reaching past my feet to pull the edge of the seal over the lip. After a few minutes, it just sort of all unzipped. I ended up with a good glass, with the seal and trim intact. I reinstalled it the same way, never taking the trim out of its channel.
I reinstalles easily using a rope in the channel for the body pinch weld. Keep it well lubed. I also (gently) laid an 80 lb bag of sand on the lower edge on the trunk side to hold it in place while I zipped out the rope.

Kebowers · #19 01-25-2006, 06:39 PM

I can not see any valid reason to use laminated glass in the rear window over tempered.

ALWAYs use a new gasket/seal--after all--the old one was leaking wasn't it?

Auto glass shop is the place to get it done, not Dealer--they may do 1/mo? 1/6 mo?

Remove the old window the right way--'piano wire' threaded through the old 'gasket, one person inside ,one outside, pulling the wire around to cut the old bond out. Avoids stressing the glass.

Rust under the gasket is VERY common defect. Be sure to kill it all and bond new gasket in place with urethane sealants. Rust INSIDE the body compartment is another common defect caused by water wicking between the glass and gasket and running down the partion and into the trunk (where you think that rust on the trunk floor came from?)

86560SEL · #20 01-25-2006, 08:12 PM

Just how difficult are these "C" pillar interior panels to remove? Sounds like a lot of work involved. Everything has to be complicated on these cars?

Also, I still do not understand - what actually holds the window in place? I do not understand the part about the metal trim having to be on before the window is installed. Does the seal have to "snap" in place or something?

If it is that time/cost consuming, I will probably just caulk it best I can and let it go. I cannot see putting $300+ just in a rear window seal. I had no idea it was this costly. It may not be a lot of money, but for what it is, it seems rather high. I guess the upper part of the trunk will have to rust away if it does not fix it.

I have already pretty do what someone else suggested and seal the taillamps with caulking.

If it works, it works - if it don't, it don't.

MS Fowler · #21 01-25-2006, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86560SEL

Just how difficult are these "C" pillar interior panels to remove? Sounds like a lot of work involved. Everything has to be complicated on these cars?

Also, I still do not understand - what actually holds the window in place? I do not understand the part about the metal trim having to be on before the window is installed. Does the seal have to "snap" in place or something?

If it is that time/cost consuming, I will probably just caulk it best I can and let it go. I cannot see putting $300+ just in a rear window seal. I had no idea it was this costly. It may not be a lot of money, but for what it is, it seems rather high. I guess the upper part of the trunk will have to rust away if it does not fix it.

I have already pretty do what someone else suggested and seal the taillamps with caulking.

If it works, it works - if it don't, it don't.

What actually holds the window in place?
The rubber seal has three grooves/channels in it--one for the glass, one for the trim, and one for the pinchweld body flange. The interesting thing is the way the trim hooks ( in its channel) under the lip of the glass. The tension of the seal, trim, glass, and car body works to lock everything together. You MUST install the trim to the seal, before fitting the seal, trim, and glass to the body.

86560SEL · #22 01-25-2006, 10:18 PM

Thanks! That makes sense!

No wonder so many get cracked.

I do not know why they did not use tempered glass on the rear.

I think I will stick with caulking- at least for now and see if that works.

olweasel · #23 01-01-2007, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86560SEL

Just how difficult are these "C" pillar interior panels to remove? Sounds like a lot of work involved. Everything has to be complicated on these cars?

Also, I still do not understand - what actually holds the window in place? I do not understand the part about the metal trim having to be on before the window is installed. Does the seal have to "snap" in place or something?

If it is that time/cost consuming, I will probably just caulk it best I can and let it go. I cannot see putting $300+ just in a rear window seal. I had no idea it was this costly. It may not be a lot of money, but for what it is, it seems rather high. I guess the upper part of the trunk will have to rust away if it does not fix it.

I have already pretty do what someone else suggested and seal the taillamps with caulking.

If it works, it works - if it don't, it don't.

try 'Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure' available at rv parts counters. I have had good results. just run a fine line where you suspect the leak, it wicks in and hardens, sealing the leak. It is actually a bit thinner than water, will penetrate and insure against future leaks. If the leak is too big for one pass, wait a couple of hours, and give it a second application. I don't wait for the leak to re-appear, but re apply every couple years. I consider it cheap insurance. olweasel (I hope I have learned a few tricks growing these gray whiskers)

pwogaman · #24 07-09-2007, 03:48 PM

I have some less than satisfactory results to report with the use of an aftermarket rear window gasket. It did not appear to have been formed adequately at the corners and the trim fit very poorly. Eventually it kept popping loose at the top center. I tried whacking it back down with a rubber mallet and that would work for a while, but now the two top pieces of trim are bent beyond satisfaction and absolutely will not stay put. I went ahead a whacked at it knowing the trim can always easily be replaced.

Unfortuneately now I need to buy an OEM seal, an additional tube of MB sealing goop, and find some replacement trim.

This little experient cut into my overall DIY savings but not eclipsed it. Hopefully others will learn from my mistake here and stick with an OEM seal.

BTW - does anybody have any extra rear window trim pieces laying around?

Hatterasguy · #25 07-09-2007, 06:40 PM

Yep aftermarket seals are junk. I think I paid like $90 at the dealer for the OE seal and chaulk.

Dee8go · #26 01-08-2009, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gerryvz

$99 for the rear window SEAL. The rear window glass for a 560SEC is just under $1,000, retail.

Cheers,
Gerry

I was quoted $1,900.00 for this yesterday. That was for the OEM glass. I have not found and aftermarket company who makes this yet. I'm hoping that Pilkington has it.

kenstfelix · #27 01-08-2009, 01:51 PM

I have had no trouble (yet) with an aftermarket seal. It cost $40-50 and $90 to have it installed. Hopefully it'll last...

Dee8go · #28 01-08-2009, 03:46 PM

Did you reuse your old glass? I've been told by a lot of people that it's very hard to get the old out without breaking it. So, I didn't want to proceed until I was sure I could get another piece in the event that it DID break.

Hatterasguy · #29 01-08-2009, 07:23 PM

I'd go to a junk yard to get the rear glass, I got mine from my 420SEL parts car.

It could break, if your carefull it probably won't though.

gerryvz · #30 01-08-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

I was quoted $1,900.00 for this yesterday. That was for the OEM glass. I have not found and aftermarket company who makes this yet. I'm hoping that Pilkington has it.

Well, I posted that retail price in November of 2004, which was accurate at the time. M-B has had at least 20 price increases since that time, so it's not surprising that the price has doubled for this part.

The problem with used glass is that 99% of them have the rear window defroster heating elements cracked, so if that is required or desired by you, a piece of used glass is 100% a non-starter.

Cheers,
Gerry