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#1
10-07-2006, 11:08 PM
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Repairing rust holes under hood hinge (waterleak)
so i've got the typical water in the driver's side. i tried to glass it but i'm just not slick enough and my bondo didn't work. i water tested it and that's where it's coming from. i'm going to take it to a pro. how much is reasonable to get this fixed properly?
this week's been strenuous with the car, but got alot of good stuff done to it. i changed the radiator, power steering low pressure hose, fixed the battery tray that was eaten away and pop riveted a new piece of sheet metal in there. the bondo not working was very disheartening and i just don't have any more strength to try again. not to mention that i have to get the rest of my veg conversion done. any success fixing this leaky area?? if so, please detail for future reference.
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion 
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#2
10-08-2006, 12:46 PM
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bumparoo
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion
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#3
10-08-2006, 02:07 PM
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I just plugged a bunch of holes with me and my MIG. I removed the front fenders to make it easier. The only leak I have seems to drip near the ood latch release, thinking it may be coming from the windsield gasket. The leaks that I repaired where
the rear floor: right near the suspension mount, towards the rear of the floor. the front floor: front area of the rockers had large holes, behind the plastic wheel well gaurd due to mount screw and other points. Had to find soft spots with screw driver through the rubber chip gaurd. Also the drain area's for under the hood in engine compartment near hood mechanism. Lots of work and a PIA in general. Keep in mind my 82 spent 1/2 life in Vermont..... also paid $600..... oh ya 600 hours labor  More pictures here http://asnowsquall.smugmug.com/gallery/1584298/4/96751508 
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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast. 
Last edited by asnowsquall; 10-08-2006 at 10:35 PM.
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#4
10-08-2006, 03:57 PM
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Bondo is probably gonna do more harm than good. You want something that bonds to rust and resists water really well. POR15 is a good example of such a product. The liquid version is good for coating larger areas, the paste version is good for filling small holes, and for bridging larger holes you can use their epoxy putty after coating the area with POR15.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL
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#5
10-08-2006, 04:52 PM
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i chiseled the bondo out. i do not have welding experince period. the only other option i could think of is water-weld or marine putty.
any idea about how much rusty holes under hood springs on driver's side should cost to do properly and what is properly?
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion
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#6
10-08-2006, 05:23 PM
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Wire brush, Por-15 and fiberglass. This is how my car was fixed in this area by the previous owner and it is holding up fine. Personally I would weld it, but then again I have a welder.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine
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#7
10-08-2006, 09:20 PM
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Stop
This is a STRUCTURAL area, it must be welded...
There is NO other option. I have done this welding repair, here is a thread with pictures of it. Who has the most rust and still drives http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/bodywork-repair-paint-tools-tips-tricks/86054-who-has-most-rust-still-drives.html#post559968 Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/
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#8
10-08-2006, 09:30 PM
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Behind the battery tray is structural? Well I guess it has to support the battery, but I think a good fiberglass repair is sufficient.
EDIT: was this directed at ansnowsqual's post? That IS a structural area. My dial up just took forever to show me the picture. 
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine Last edited by bgkast; 10-08-2006 at 09:36 PM.
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#9
10-08-2006, 09:41 PM
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nah, the battery tray area i just pop riveted a new piece of sheet metal i formed to fit over it after I rust inhibited it all.
my problem is on the driver's side. i'll look into getting it welded! thanks all!!
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1982 MB 300D-T Veg Power Two tank conversion
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#10
10-08-2006, 09:52 PM
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Answer:
Who has the most rust and still drives
Post #175 through post #190 are a W123 240D. I have argued with engineers and designers, the ones that do impact testing agree that the battery tray area against the bulkhead is critical structural. You would need a map of the crumple zones to realize why the entire bulkhead and A-pillar area is critical structural zone. Here is a cool W123 impact test picture. 
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#11
10-09-2006, 01:43 PM
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It depends on how much rust we're talking about. Obviously you should never be filling in huge areas with bondo or epoxy. But a fairly small rust hole that's properly sealed is not gonna compromise structural integrity no matter where it is. It really depends on the extent of the corrosion and common sense should be used.
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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual) Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL
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