How bad does W123 floorpan rust look to you? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JEBalles · #16 07-30-2008, 08:47 PM

I've found MIG welders on amazon.com as low as 140 bucks, maybe not top notch, but if all you're doing is welding in some new metal in the floorboards, then it'll get the job done. Anyway, I have some serious rot behind the front wheel on the frame on my 123. It seems to have gotten through the frame and the rocker panels as well as corroding one of the jack panels. The body shop said it would cost 3000 to fix, but I couldn't understand why you couldn't just weld in some new metal? They also said it was structual, but my dad says it isn't. Any advice?

pwogaman · #17 07-30-2008, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dee8go

The exhaust system was your FIRST welding project? Wow! I'm impressed, Paul. You did a great job on that.

Where'd you get your welder? What did you pay for it? I've done gas welding before, but not arc or tig/mig welding.

I got it at Lowes for $499. Actually the Argon tank cost some more, I got it off ebay.

Truthfully, the very, very first Mig welding I did with it was on my wife's broken lamp. I had to show her that it was not just a toy. After that I had my fun playing with it, repairing a 617 air filter bracket. Then came the exhaust and the trunk repair.

I read up on everything on the process I could find on the internet. I also had the benefit of learning a great deal about welding through an assignment or two at work.

pwogaman · #18 07-30-2008, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

I've found MIG welders on amazon.com as low as 140 bucks, maybe not top notch, but if all you're doing is welding in some new metal in the floorboards, then it'll get the job done. Anyway, I have some serious rot behind the front wheel on the frame on my 123. It seems to have gotten through the frame and the rocker panels as well as corroding one of the jack panels. The body shop said it would cost 3000 to fix, but I couldn't understand why you couldn't just weld in some new metal? They also said it was structual, but my dad says it isn't. Any advice?

The $140 dollar models might not have gas capability. I would pass on it if it meant being stuck with flux core, that would make any fancy work you might want to do later more difficult, e.g., visible body work. I looked at my purchase as something I wanted to do only once in forever. While there is considerable debate between getting a Miller or others, I got the Lincoln Electric because it is what Lowes had and I had a $100 gift card for Lowes.

JEBalles · #19 08-14-2008, 10:46 PM

Your right, it is a flux core. What are the disadvantages of flux core compared to gas? I'm doing mostly cosmetic work.

pwogaman · #20 08-14-2008, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

Your right, it is a flux core. What are the disadvantages of flux core compared to gas? I'm doing mostly cosmetic work.

Flux core leaves a shell or case on the weld. The means of preventing unwanted gases (air) into the melted mix with case with to displace it with inert gas (argon, etc. . .). Flux creates an outer protective barrier, burnt dust in appearance, which must (should) be removed (scrapped off) between passes (welding over a prior seam). If you weld over the flux case it will get mixed in with your melt metal and weaken it. Gas welding does not leave the case and you can do multiple passes with any problems.

JEBalles · #21 08-15-2008, 09:08 AM

oh, well to save a couple hundred bucks and not have to deal with gas, I think I'll be fine with that, I'm not doing a ton of work.

Oracle12345 · #22 08-19-2008, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JEBalles

I've found MIG welders on amazon.com as low as 140 bucks, maybe not top notch, but if all you're doing is welding in some new metal in the floorboards, then it'll get the job done. Anyway, I have some serious rot behind the front wheel on the frame on my 123. It seems to have gotten through the frame and the rocker panels as well as corroding one of the jack panels. The body shop said it would cost 3000 to fix, but I couldn't understand why you couldn't just weld in some new metal? They also said it was structual, but my dad says it isn't. Any advice?

On these cars it is structural, So the body shop is right.

indisguise · #23 08-22-2008, 04:59 PM

The fix for this is not as bad as you think. You can buy amazing reproduction panels for the rear shipped for less than $90. What you need...

1. 110 V MIG welder ( I use a Hobart 140...lovely machine)
2. New panel.
3. Angle grinder.
4. Anti Rust paint ( I used Rust Bullet....bloody good)
5. Courage

Heres some photos of the same repair...in fact my 240D was far worse. Also note I have only recently started welding. Just take your time and dont rush it.

Also note that underseal is highly flammable...so remove it all to bare metal. Also check the front pans too....

As said before...at least you end up with a welder at the end...

JMURiz · #24 10-29-2008, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indisguise

The fix for this is not as bad as you think. You can buy amazing reproduction panels for the rear shipped for less than $90. What you need...

Where'd you get your panels from? Wondering if they have repos of W114 panels....or if I could use W123 panels and cut them up to work.

indisguise · #25 10-30-2008, 05:49 PM

I called these guys, the panel was not listed on their site so I called them...worked out real well in the end.

http://www.kkmfg.com/catalog.php

Hope this helps.

MBJOE · #26 05-25-2009, 02:17 PM

I know this is an old thread but Since I am doing the same kind of repair on my 240D, I thought some of you might enjoy this You tube clip that I found. This old guy covers just about every aspect of replacing a 300TD floor pan. It is a five part series so watch all of them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1I2AgwkMzo4