ahhh hatteras off white looks like a good replacement for "light ivory"

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1981 NA 300D 310k miles

On some thread, someone ,mentioned having a clear coat shot over all the work -not sure if this is possible, or if so, certainly needs to bond correctly with the base coat - I do understand that rustoleum enamel can be polished over and over again - suppose keeping it waxed heavily would assist in maintaining shine -

I have silver on my wagon which probably puts me back into the land of rustoleum

I need Maple yellow. Maybe mix two colors? It is nice paint I use it on boats, and if rolled and tipped properly it can look very nice without sanding after painting.

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1977 240D turbo

I say go for it!

It seems like you would be better off using something like a Wagner paint sprayer rather than rollers. A lot more control over application, less sanding, thinner coats, etc.

It would add to the expense but It seems like it would be worth it.

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My occupational hazard bein'
my occupation's just not around...
1980 300SD
1980 300SD

yea, but again, back to spraying, overspray, wind, etc. I would probably do Maaco at that point which I am still tempted to do in spite of the last time which was a major ordeal . . . . had to basically repo my car back from the operator who had my car for two months!

Some other options with "real automotive paint...

Restoration Shop Colors

They have single stage poly gallons with hardener for under $100.

as do these guys:

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/acrylic-urethanes.html

I have used Kirker paint, in fact, shot the 300D in GM #81 10 years ago and it was fine.

Not sure I see the benefit of doing it the "rustoleum way", unless you are starting off with no compressor, no gun, no place to work. You can't save anything on the paint and I doubt the durability will be anything like you could get with a real auto urethane, even a cheap one.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

true, my biggest reason for not going to a shop is very few do a good job and car is not worth much -my last experience was a nightmare so given no booth, etc. it seems like a great way to go given that it is low on cost but high on labor and the learning curve not as harsh as with a spray gun. I have thought about working with a moonlighting body guy to prep car and I will pull all trim, etc so that car can be shot well . . . . . there is plenty of shoddy paint work out there from the pros -

I did my 47 Dodge truck in rustoleum spray cans. Then waxed it real good after the paint cured, still looks nice after 10 years. The down side to this lack of color choice. For the old truck I did red with black fenders similer to the original. But rustoleum does not have a color close to Maple Yellow for my 240. If they did I would do it for sure.

For me I can get a good spray from the spray cans but never have been able to get a nice finish with a spray gun and proper automotive paint. Plus I often only have time to do one area of the car at a time. So like doing a quarter panel, my next job on the car it would sure be nice to just have a paint that is easy to handle to do it, then do other parts as I have time. So this is why for me something other then automotive paint is what I prefer. Someday if I get rich, sure take it to a paint shop and have it done right, but till then want to keep the rust at bay, and have it look decent.

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1977 240D turbo

I have shot at least a half dozen cars over 45 years ( I think the first one was my Dad's 61 Falcon when I was maybe 13 or 14). I tend to get better at it everytime, but, I also tend to forget much of what I learned the last time ( since they are years between).

I am no expert and I don't have a paint booth- I shoot outside with a charcoal mask and take my chances with bugs . My best work is with single stage urethane, color sanded and buffed. If you buy lots of paint and have lots of patience, you will prevail.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

I did it on my jeep. It worked well. Not a show finish or evenclose, but for $43 I got what I paid for.

I will tell you to not do it when it's hot, the whole point of the rustolum is that it's self leveling, when it's much over 90* it sets up too quickly

Brightside works great and it sets up in a couple of hours. The poly paint likes a little humidity in the air to level and cure fast. Use Pettitt #333 thinner to thin it slightly and use a low nap 6" length 1" diameter roller. I have done a van before with the Hatteras white, and many seasons of repainting on a 27' sailboat using dark blue. After a month in the sun, the paint looses some of it's gloss and hides imperfections from being shown up in the direct light. 1 qt is enough for a wagon.

That Moparts post is probably the most read thread in the automotive world. I followed it to roll & tip my camping trailer w/ Brightsides a few years ago and it came out great w/ almost no runs, and that was on vertical surfaces. I mixed 1 part yellow to 3 parts white for my 65 Dart, which gives a great light yellow. So far I just painted the trunk and engine bay, but looks fine, and those places are trickier since you can't roll, and hard to get the foam brush in spots without runs. The body is coming up.

As many say, it is all in the prep and final sanding. Even if you spray, you must sand to get the paint mirror smooth. I don't like spraying because of more prep, over-spray, wasted paint, and health concerns. I wouldn't use clear coat. When the paint gets damaged (often in any driver), you can't spot fix clear coat like you can a solid.

Uh is it just me or are some of those interlux yacht paint colours (in the post by DeliveryValve) uncannily close to certain factory colours on w123s?

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Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22

Did you thin the rustoleum? That looks like it was applied too thick.

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2013 Volkswagen Jetta Hybrid SEL Premium (Sparky)
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