Seems like a losing battle with rust... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 11-15-2002, 09:15 PM

Found another hole in floorpan after lifitng up the stupid waterproofing crap in the back parts of the car. Not too bad, but one of two holes on middle of floor, and 1 of 6 holes spattered throughought the floor (including rust at welds between rocker panel and floorpans) I am seriously contemplating buying new floorpans and rocker panels, and having them installed. How much would this cost total? The car cost me nothing mind you, and is mechanically sound, so this type of investment seems to be justified. I am patching the hole with everyones favorite buddy, fiberglass, after th rust mort dries...How much would two new rocker panels and 4 new floorpans run, installed?

BTW...where could floorpans and rocker panels be purchased online?

Billybob · #2 11-15-2002, 09:41 PM

Here's one place:

http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=sm

kerry · #3 11-15-2002, 09:56 PM

My brother-in-law had a Corvair. The floor completely rusted out. He pulled all the seats and cut everything away from the firewall to the trunk and replaced the whole thing with treated plywood bolted to brackets welded to the rails left at the doors. It lasted for years.

#4 11-15-2002, 10:59 PM

Lol no plywood Kerry...god suggestion though.

rickg · #5 11-15-2002, 11:59 PM

Right on the plywood!

I seem to remember one of the old MG models from the fifties had plywood floor boards. MG-A I think.

TimFreeh · #6 11-16-2002, 11:44 AM

Most of the 123's that have spent their lives in the northeast (and not in a garage) are past the point of no return. W126's are a later design - seems like the more modern the design the better the rust protection is.

You could weld in new floors to a W123 but I suspect if would cost thousands of dollars for a pro to do it right. I've done some of this work and its very labor intensive. Before you spend the $$$ do yourself a favor, jack up your car and spend an hour of so with an ice pick looking for soft spots - I think you will be surprised at what you find.

If you really want a W123 for the long haul I think you would be better served by buying a southern California or Arizona car and shipping it to Rhode Island.

I agree with Tank - I love W123's and hate to see them slowly rusting away but at some point you have to throw in the towl.

I think we are very close to that time in the northeast.

Tim

#7 11-16-2002, 02:24 PM

Cut a nice big piece of fiberglass matting to fitt my floorboards, mixed up a batch, and placed over each of the floorboards in the vehicle (regardless if it was broken or not) Actually, the middle parts of the floor boards are intact and in great condition, original nice shiny metal. The edges are where its bad. My fiberglass job will hopefully prolong Oskar's life, and maybe even save it. The floorboards arent actualy too bad, and the rocker panels are still kickable without crumbling to dust. I think I can save him....

P.E.Haiges · #8 11-16-2002, 05:09 PM

Kyle,

I agree with Tim that it would cost more to fix you car than you could buy a good rust free car for. If you do repair yours, you will soon fimd rust appearing someplace else. Rust never ends once it has started.

The only way to defeat rust is to not drive your car in the salt either on the road or in the surf.

I suggest you purchase a rust free car and keep the one you have to use in the winter. That's what I do and every spring its just like getting a new car without any cost.

P E H

#9 11-16-2002, 06:50 PM

Just some parts of the floor...The actual frame and body panels are good. 3 of four fenders are perfect, one has a patch instaleld from what I believe what was a former accident. Ive been tought rust cannot spread without moisture, so I am doing my best to contain the rust I have now. RI roads dont use much salt...usually just sand. Roads cant be too bad if the body has 318,000 miles and thats all the rust. Seen much worse with half the mileage in other states. I commute to Mass, and I dont think they use much salt either.