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#1
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Cheap paint shops.
I have heard of Maaco and some other cheap paint shops such as Schreib(something)... Does anybody know the correct name for the Schreib.... shop?
How much is a cheapest Maaco paint job? Eric |
#2
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That's Earl Scheib.
Got a $200 paint job from Maaco about 5 years ago on a 77 Buick Lesabre. Looked good for about a year. After that it faded fast.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Dear Kerry:
Thanks a lot for your prompt response. Best regards, Eric |
#4
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Cheap paint jobs
The 82 300SD I just bought has a "cheap" paint job on it. I have done better sitting in my driveway. The car shines, but the amount of dirt in the paint is terrible.
It's what we always called a good 20 footer. (Looks good from 20 feet)
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1971 R600 Mack toterhome (SuperDawg) 99 NU-WA Snowbird 34+2 SE 102 5er If it's not diesel, it's not in my stable! 53 F100 617.951/auto 95 Dodge 3500 Cummins/5 speed service truck |
#5
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Had a Macco black done on a pealing grand am a few years ago. Was OK for 300 bucks. If you can do some prep work yourself it can come out fairly good. The more you can perp, the better. They use some OK paint but don't think of any shows. Good 10 ft paint job though. Take off the trim, mask the steel, sand it down. Do the best you can.
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#6
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I just bought a 240D that I pulled the trim off, etc and MAACO painted the car. It looks great. I put back on the trim, took laquer thinner and cleaned up the over spray and I am happy with it. I am thinking about keeping it. It is dark royal blue with a 4spd manual. I have been driving it for 4 days now and get many compliments. It is NOT a 5/50 paint job (looks good from 5 feet or 50 mph)
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#7
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The key to good results in ANY paint job is the prep. The more work you can do before the paint is sprayed is time well spent. If you can remove bumpers, mirrors, trim, etc. and also carefully mask (with the correct masking tape) you will improve your odds of getting a satisfying result. Also, if you can correctly rough up the surface of the paint currently on the car, with something like 1000 grit paper, then the new paint will get a better bite.
Before turing your car over to a paint shop, you can learn a lot about the process if you spend a few bucks for one of the several good quality body and paint books published by HP books, Hot Rod Magazine, and the like. I don't know where you are in California but if you are near the Los Angeles area check out Autobooks in Burbank...they will have the books that will explain how to get good results for your project. And make sure you buy your tape, chemicals (as part of the prep you're going to want to wipe the whole car down with Prep-Sol or something similar to remove all wax and silicones to eliminate fish eyes in the new paint) paper and sanding blocks from a commercial auto paint shop---NOT from Pep Boys or someplace similar. You may even get a referrral from that shop of a good, small independent painter who can give you a good job at a price you'll like.
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Richard Detoy '84 300SD '76 Moto Guzzi 850 Le Mans |
#8
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question...
Maaco and Earl Scheib-types don't mix custom colors, right? You have to choose from their available colors?
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#9
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I just had my wifes Jetta painted. The paint/sanding/prep was $1300. And that was with me removing every piece of trim that would come off. Bumpers, mirrors, antenna, door handles, lights, windshield wipers, etc. I came out great but it is a lot of work. As always you get what you pay for. Talk to a couple of bodyshops and tell them what you want to do. They usually are willing to work with you as you are making their jobs easier. RT
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When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#10
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Had an '83 300SD that I paid $4000 for. Got quotes to paint it that were close to what I paid for the car. Figured Maaco wouldn't be THAT bad after all!
I stripped the car in my driveway, which isn't hard since most parts on this car unclip or unbolt really easily (and obviously, unlike American cars with hidden fasteners!). Took me about 3 hours to get it ready for the paint shop. Only left on a drivers' door handle, lights, and mirrors (loosely bolted) for the drive to Maaco. I told the guy I was really picky and would be stopping by each day after work to check on the progress. I think that scared him enough into doing a good job. On the 2nd coat of paint, I found a run in the paint. They sanded and resprayed the entire car. It came out PERFECT! I used a stock color (gloss black) and there were very few people who could tell the car had been repainted. I can tell the difference between an original MB black paint job and this MAACO one, but I'd say 95% of the people who saw my car had no clue. People looked at me funny when I said I stripped it and had it painted at MAACO. Some tips: 1. Scare the guy into believing you are anal about your car and will stop by 2x a day to see the progress. Then do so. 2. Case of beer "accidentally" left in the trunk for the guy who paints your car goes a LONG way! 3. Go by the same rule I did -- leave it on the car ONLY if you want it painted. If you don't, the part had better be in your garage when you're driving to MAACO. Those guys really do go overboard with the spray gun.. 4. Pull the door panels and door jamb weatherstrip (that fuzzy stuff that runs around the edge). Mask the inside of the door (window, window motor, lock, etc.) and have them paint the entire door and door jamb. Otherwise you'll see the old color every time you open the door. Not much harder to do it properly! 5. Wait for the paint to dry. Mine took 7-10 days before it fully hardened and was easy to ding and scratch. I wouldn't park it in a public parking lot for a week if you could avoid it. 6. Two or three coats of Liquid Glass look really good on a MAACO paint job. Remember to wait 30 days before you put any wax/sealant because the paint has to harden fully. Hope this helps......... Neal
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'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD '87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD '86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD '92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD '90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD '01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD '03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD '07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD '07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi) '13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi) '14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi) |
#11
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I have a friend who builds lowriders and he has MAACO spray his base colors. He alsway preps his cars himself and he also buys his own paint. He has stated to me that if you want to cut and polish the paint, be sure to buy your own good quality paint and tell them to apply all of it to the car. If they use their own paint, It is not thick enough to polish without seeing the primer coat.
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83 W123 240D 76 300D, "Lil Yellow Car" 1978 Cessna 172N 180 HP Mod "If life ain't fun, I'm not interested" The important things are those that you learn after you know it all. Chip Foose Build a better mousetrap and you will REALLY infuriate corporate america. |
#12
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I have a friend who builds lowriders and he has MAACO spray his base colors. He always preps his cars himself and he also buys his own paint. He has stated to me that if you want to cut and polish the paint, be sure to buy your own good quality paint and tell them to apply all of it to the car. If they use their own paint, It is not thick enough to polish without seeing the primer coat.
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83 W123 240D 76 300D, "Lil Yellow Car" 1978 Cessna 172N 180 HP Mod "If life ain't fun, I'm not interested" The important things are those that you learn after you know it all. Chip Foose Build a better mousetrap and you will REALLY infuriate corporate america. |
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