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#1
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I've been the second owner of this car going on about three months now; basically well kept, well maintained inside and out. However, the wheels have intermittent spotting/streaking across their faces (not at all in the "slots" where the air holes are) that look like what I call stress fractures--they're shiny, liney things that look like they're below the surface yet, at the same time, on the surface. Quasi holographic. I've goofed around with that metal polish wadding as well as Meguiar's #9, but neither seems to make much difference.
A friend is the service manager at the local Chevrolet dealer; when he was looking at the car, he said he thought that the condition was caused by a car wash that used acid in its wheel cleaner. Has anyone else had to deal with this issue? Am I using the right product(s) but just need to keep polishing, perhaps using an orbital applicator? Any insight would be appreciated because, otherwise, the car looks pretty new even though it's going on nine years old! Thanks, Brian [This message has been edited by dfndr (edited 06-13-2000).] |
#2
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Sounds like the result of the previous owner preping the car for sale. Your friend, the service manager , was probably half right. There are many new products on the market in the past couple of years that enable home enthusiasts to clean their own "neglected" wheels. We all know this is a particular problem with german cars with stock brakes. All of these products contain a rather high content of acid (much higher than any car wash would use), and when used properly can produce superior results. However, when used improperly, can produce results like you describe. It also sounds like you are attempting to "clean" the clean spots left by improper aplication of this acid. This won't work for obvious reasons. Also, some of these cleaners (depending on brand) can be bought in different "grades" for chrome. clear coat. polished aluminum, etc.
The best fix I know is to clean the entire wheel with a similar product. I use Meguiars Gold Class Instant Wheel Cleaner (which is only sold in one "grade" so it at least helps avoid that little bit of confusion). There are some things I have learned in the process of using these products that aren't nessicarily common sense. 1) When they say "Make sure you do not apply to a hot wheel" they mean it. Can you say evaporate 2) It is best applied to a "dry" wheel. I would have thought just th opposite 3) Do one wheel at a time! This is probably where the previous owner failed. If this stuff is allowed to dry it will produce a result very similar to the one you describe. Also, in an attempt to run around your car spraying all 4 wheels in a hurry, you are bound to miss a spot or two and this also produces undesireable results. 4) Lastly, make sure you have sprayed every nook and cranny in the wheel with the cleaner, let it soak in for about one to two minutes and hose off (a power washer really comes in handy here). Happy cleaning. Paul ------------------ '99 SLK230 (Bahama Blue) 17" O.Z. Racing "Vela" Modular wheels Real carbon fiber interior AMG sideskirts Custom rear wing '96 Impala SS (Black) 17" Boyd's "Phoenix" wheels Custom exhaust Full custom interior(black and purple) with real carbon fiber Custom intake '94 Firebird Formula (Turquoise) 17" Antera "Opus One" (three spoke) wheels Full custom interior Vortech Supercharger Other Misc Craziness |
#3
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Thank you for your detailed "how-to." I'll give it a try and let you know the results.
Again, thanks! |
#4
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Paul,
Since your suggestion, I have been in the process of relocating across the state (Florida) from Jacksonville to Tallahassee and only yesterday was I able to try your remedy. Unfortunately, this did not seem to touch the multitudinous tiny "holographs" that literally look like stress fractures (although I know that they could not be that). Do you have any other thoughts? Do any other voices have any suggestions? Orbital buffer with a tube of toothpaste???? Thanks, Brian |
#5
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Sorry dfndr,
I thought we had it nailed. Also sorry my first guess didn't help. Tell me, are your wheels painted and clearcoated or polished raw aluminum? Initially I got the impression we were dealing with painted wheels, but from the products you have mentioned (and after reading your initial post a little more carefully, my mistake, sorry) I'm afraid I may have assumed too much. If you could just be a little more specific about your wheels, I think we can noodle this out. Paul |
#6
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Hi, Paul,
I've been trying to figure that out myself. I guess I've concluded that they are not painted or clearcoated but, rather, a polished alloy. Would the acids discussed earlier on this thread cause the "holographic stress fractures" that seem impervious to any surface rubbing, or is there some other explanatiom? |
#7
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If the wheels are OE, then indeed they're polished but are clearcoated for sure. Treat the wheels like you would damaged paint and see if that gets you some results. I suggest start with 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or a comparable product.
Good luck! ------------------ Best regards, Michael '92 500E '88 300TE |
#8
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I concur
3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a great place to start. I have used it in many problematic situations with great results. If your wheels are raw aluminum I would have recommended some harsher remedies. If this doesn't work post again and I can recommend something a little more abrasive. We don't want you to take any more finish off of your wheels than you have to. Paul |
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