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#1
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Nu Finish
Anyone had any experience with this? What do you think?
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#2
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Didn't like it at all. Made my paint look duller.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#3
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interesting.....I used it in the past and thought it did an ok job. I used it yesterday on one side of the hood of my car and I used meguires carnuba plus on the other side and the meguires did a much better job. Did some research last night and saw that it was neither a wax or a polish, but a sealer. That being said, am I composing apples and oranges by using the 2 side by side to compare? Also, since the nu finish is supposedly a sealer, would there be an advantage to using them both, the wax on top of the sealer?
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#4
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Most sealers contain silicone based products and wax... well wax. The product comparison is sort of blurred now as many waxes also contain silicone. Use the product that gives you the best result. Watch out for "cleaner" wax as they do contain abrasives and its my personal preferance not to use on cars that have a clear coat finish.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#5
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I think Meguiars makes the best products on the market. They beautify the pant, and do a good job protecting....and don't use the water bead test to see if your wax is holding up. Water beading on your paint is related to surface tension. Meguiars formulates some of their waxes so that the water does not bead. If it beads up and doesn't run off, the water will dry and leave water spots, chemically etching your paint.
I remember Consumer Reports rated the Meguiars rated the Gold Class wax low for this very reason, and Meguiar's is like "duh", we formulated it to not bead. I use this stuff, and it's incredible: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g18216-ultimate-wax-liquid/
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#6
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Meguiars is good stuff. Best test for wax is to run your finger lightly over the finish. Then wrap a single layer of plastic wrap around your finger and do the same.
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BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o) |
#7
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That's it...that's how Meguiar's tells you to test if the wax is still good.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#8
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They still make that crap?
That has been around longer than infomercials. I tried it on an oxidized car back in the day (pre-clear-coat, that's another sign of how old it is) and it made the paint look worse. And it was LOTS of work to clean it off so I could put something else on. Nowadays I have excellent results with Four Star's products, I've been really happy with the result on lighter-finish cars, it really makes MB's brilliant silver POP. Clay, wash, wax, seal and the finish is like satin. |
#9
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My grandmother used that stuff on the 240D. The paint is currently badly oxidized and very dull however it is still the original 35 year old paint and from 20 feet it looks amazing. After I get the car shipped its getting professionally detailed and buffed.
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#10
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I like ICE, know white spots,and dust.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran, deutschland deutschland uber alles uber alles in der welt |
#11
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Quote:
__________________
![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#12
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Quote:
There are those who believe that waxes or sealers can be "layered" with multiple coats, where you can get a measurable build-up of product. Dr. Pennington at Meguiar's told me that it just isn't possible. All sealers / waxes contain chemical cleaners that basically obliterate the coat already on the car, and there is no measurable layering effect with multiple coats of product.
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Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#13
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I'm no expert on the subject and I could be wrong, but I thought there were regular waxes with no abrasives and cleaner waxes with mild abrasives.And on the bottle of Nu Finish it says it contains "absolutely no wax." Every so often after I wash my car I will go over the entire car with rubbing compound to try to take off the "old" wax and put fresh wax on. Is that necessary or do I just have OCD? Keep in mind I live in the desert where there is sand.....Everywhere. So everyday of just going for a drive and parking I will have a thin dusty layer sand on my car that I dust off.
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
#14
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Quote:
When Nu finish says it contains no wax, they probably mean no carnuba, which is fine. Dr. Pennington at Meguiars told me that synthetic polymers do a significantly better job than carnuba at protecting paint. I would only use a rubbing compound or paint cleaner to remove paint defects / scratches. You do not have to use anything to take off the old wax. Waxes contain chemcal cleaners to help the wax / polymer adhere to the paint, which removes the old layer of wax.
__________________
Paul S. 2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior. 79,200 miles. 1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron". |
#15
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Thanks for the insight. I think that just saved me a few steps the next time I clean my car.
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![]() 1990 190E 3.0L |
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