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  #1  
Old 07-29-2007, 03:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: East Hampton, CT
Posts: 204
1987 300td Turbo EGR Issue

Greetings!
I have been enjoying my new wagon this weekend and now have to address some issues.

First Issue-
Sometimes when the car is started I will have no turbo boost. Eggtimer acceleration. Most of the time the acceleration is awesome.

Second Issue-
The egr vacuum line is currently disconnected and pluged. If I hook up the egr line the car will not start as if there is not enough fuel entering the combustion chamber????

Third Issue-
Rear driverside shock seals are shot! I'm trying to find a donor 300te. If anyone has access to a set of good used rear sls shocks, let me know.

Fourth Issue-
After turning the car off and starting within 10 minutes I have to flip the key back and forth a couple of times to get to start. Bad GP's? GP Relay? The GP light comes on and turns off, but sometimes instantly.

Let me know!

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  #2  
Old 07-29-2007, 04:07 PM
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smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,841
1) All the turbodiesels I've driven are slugs for a couple of minutes after a cold start... except this latest 87 300D.

2) Have someone start the engine while you watch the shut-off lever on the IP. Does it stay down when the engine is cranked with the EGR hooked-up?

4) The GP relay has an internal temp sensor or calculates engine temp based on GP resistance to determine how long to light the GPs. On a hot engine that could be a fraction of a second.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2007, 06:01 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: East Hampton, CT
Posts: 204
To clarify first issue-
Turbo will not spool up at all even after reaching operating temp.

Second issue-
There is a constant vacuum being pulled to the EGR at 20-23 in-hg. Shouldn't the EGR engage at warm up temps. I hooked the EGR up after starting with EGR disconnected and it appeared to boge down the engine (engine still cool). I applied 10 in-hg to the EGR and it slowly leaked down to 0. I'm curious to what controls the EGR and wastegate vacuum. I believe its the two valves under the air box.

Is there a method to test if these electronic valves are working correctly?

Forth Issue-
Good call on that temp sensor. If I disconnect that sensor will I get full GP delay. I checked that the relay is working and it does click after 30 seconds. Unfortunately I just lost my GP indicator light so I may have lost #1 GP.


The idle is good. I wonder if the computer sensors for the electronic valves is at falt.

Let me know.
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2007, 06:52 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: East Hampton, CT
Posts: 204
Update

I was investigating the warm start issue and I was curious if the shut off valve was sticking. I found that the ignition switch is not pulling all the vacuum off the shut off valve.

What in the ignition housing pulls the vacuum off the shut off valve???

The PO also told me that he replaced the ignition switch (different key than doors).

Last edited by mcguirjf; 07-29-2007 at 06:54 PM. Reason: more info
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  #5  
Old 08-06-2007, 06:04 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: East Hampton, CT
Posts: 204
Resolved

Just to follow up on these issues...

All were a resultant of a defective ignition vacuum switch. When turning the car off, the vacuum would not completely bleed off the injection pump shut off valve. Also the vacuum lines were flipped.

I also found that the ???atmospheric tube??? located under the steering column was plugged which according to the vacuum diagram goes to both egr and wastegate valves!!!

Cars runs great!

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