Injector pump problems

Well, I tried to replace the IP on my 69 220d. Bought one from someone who "said" in was taken off a running car that ran great.

My car idled very high, and I checked and double checked everything, so I figured it must be the IP.

I took my old one off, and put the new one on, but, didn't remember that I had to make sure the timing was the same, of which would be about impossible to do.

I then took the new one off because I followed the books instructions exactly to try to do the drip test.........got nothing.

I tried to use LP air into the "in" port but never got anything to come out of any of the ports even after turning the IP shaft about 20 times.

I then did the same air test with the old one, and I got air to come out of the #1 line all of the time and it never stopped.

I figured I could just take the pump off, use the air test to get it set to where the air just stops coming out, then set the car to 24 BTDC and put it back in, but evidentally not...........

Anyone got any pointers or help with this situation?

[psfred]

Guess and b'God only works for lucky people, and I an't lucky...

Set engine on compression stroke of #1 cylinder (both valves closed or closing, both lobes pointing up) at 24 BTDC.

Look at the front of the IP. There is a mark at the upper left corner, a "missing" spline on the coupler splines, and a mark on the shaft. Line these up and install so that be bolts are in the middle of the cutouts on the mount. This should get you very close. Leave the nuts loose so you can move the pump back and forth.

Make sure there is a coupling sleeve between the intermediate shaft and the IP, too, else it won't turn.

Next, either obtain a drip tube or make one from plastic hose of some sort -- it only needs to push over the injection line fitting and seal with the free end bent over so you can see fuel drip off. Remove the #1 (front) pressure valve holder and carefully remove the spring and little steel valve from inside and screw the pressure valve holder back on.

Wire the pump linkage at wide open throttle. Pump the hand pump to fill the IP with fuel. If it's set right, only a slow drop by drop flow will come out of the drip tube. You may need to crack the bleed screw on the top of the pump next to the oil filler cap to bleed the air out. Tighten it when no more air comes out, only fuel.

Check that you are still at 24 BTDC on the crank, compression stroke of #1, then while still pumping, rotate the pump slowly away from the block until the fuel flows freely out the drip tube. Slowly rotate it back toward the block until the fuel flow abruptly slows down. It's obvious, but you can do it several times if you want. Just make sure the paper gasket for the IP doesn't tear or you get an intractable oil leak.

When satisfied that you have the pump set to just stop the flow (you still get a drip a second or so), tighten the mounting bolts, re-installl the pressure valve and spring, and the injection lines. Tighten the pressure valve holder to 25 ft/lbs three times, or it won't seal properly.

Leave the lines loose at the injectors, then crank the engine until no more air comes out the loose lines. Tighten injectors, run the glow plugs, and start it. May take a while, but it will start.

I'd personally check the chain stretch first, as a worn chain will have to be replaced and you would then need to rest th injection timing again. Just as easy to do it first.

Peter

Thanks!

I will give it a try this weekend. I saw the "split" in the splines on the IP, didn't know if it was an alignment tool or not though.

[psfred]

There is a mark on the flange surrounding the spline next to one of the screws.

Good luck!

Peter

Well, followed the instructions to the letter, but still nothing.

I took the cam cover off, rotated the engine to 24 BTDC, cam lobes were positioned up.

Removed IP and rotated the shaft until the "split" was inline with the mark on the flange. It didn't line up perfectly on the mark, about 1/8" off, but I figured that was adjustment range.

Put everything together, and.................turns over great but still not starting.

I pulled the one line off, and I am getting flow.

I am thinking I will just have my wife pull me w/ the truck and put it in 2nd and pull it till it starts.

It ran before I pulled the IP out (although 4 months ago). So, I figure it should be starting now, even if it is misaligned, it should still start.

Anything new to try Peter?

[psfred]

Do you have while smoke coming out the exhaust? If not, you aren't injecting yet, it can take a while to completely prime the pump.

If you are, I suspect you are still too far off. Just close won't work, you actually have to set the timing to the mark or it won't start after sitting for a couple months.

Make up a drip tube -- rubber fuel line will work, just cut the free end off so that it forms a point for the fuel to drip off (bottom side) and set the timing dead on 24 BTDC -- you may need to remove the injection lines to be able to rotate the pump. I know this is a hassle, but it ain't gonna start until the pump timing is correct.

1/8" off is probably ten degrees or more, and I'd bet it was late rather than fast, too!

Peter

[psfred]

The radios usually fail due to bad solder joints and can be repaired by simply resoldering any questionable joints, or can be rebuilt by Becker.

I'd question the value of doing so, the car is never gonna be worth much, but hey, it's your money!

Peter