Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #76  
Old 02-15-2007, 11:17 AM
gsxr's Avatar
Unbanned...?
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 8,104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
I have the factory CD-ROM version of the W124 FSM and have been searching through both CDs for the section on the vacuum pump (the one on the engine, of course, not the one under the seat). The factory was really clever in hiding it this time, I can't find it anywhere! Help, anyone?
It's supposed to be 43-0618, but that job doesn't appear in the CD manual - weird. I'll check the printed manuals (and WIS) tonight. Definitely pull the upper radiator hose, fan clutch, and serpentine belt assy to make room. Trust me - it saves time in the end. BT, DT. Set the crank at TDC, this may have the pump on the low side of the cam/ramp so it's not under too much pressure as you unbolt it. Don't use the "dam" gasket with the timing basket still installed - the bolts interfere. And finally, if your engine doesn't need the dam gasket and you have an extra, I'll buy that from you... I can't get them anymore for my early 603 engine. For some reason they're only supplied with new pumps now.



:fork_off:

Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 02-15-2007, 07:55 PM
gsxr's Avatar
Unbanned...?
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 8,104
Sure enough, it's in the printed W124 manual, Chassis Vol 1, job 43-618. No idea why it's not in the CD manual. It's a 1-page diagram that tells you basically nothing other than to remove the fan & belt, and have the pump at BDC of the lift curve. Doesn't even spec tightening torques. Go figure.

Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 02-15-2007, 08:16 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,851
There are two highs and lows on the timer pump drive so if you set a low to coincide with crank TDC you'd always get a low at TDC, right?

You wouldn't try that with only the vacuum pump off unless the number of IP splines is a factor of the number of timer cogs.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 02-16-2007, 02:29 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,851
W126 CD manual has section 43-0618. Zero useful info as Dave said. Use the pictures of the gasket to figure out which bolts to remove. They all take a 10mm socket or wrench. The 3 bolts that take a 13mm socket or wrench hold the IP to the block. Don't loosen those.

Sixto
93 300SD 3.0
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 02-19-2007, 02:56 AM
greasybenz's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 2,082
Ok got the new pump in. But broke some peices along the way...

Well i need a new expansion tank hose, new vacuum line that goes to the pump and the vacuum hose that goes from the pump to the brake booster. The nipple on the check valve broke off as i removed the hose from the old vacuum pump.

neither fastlane or ******** list the check valve but fastlane does list the booster vacuum hose so ill probably just buy the entire hose.

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1ZH1ESC5320R05R2IT&year=1987&make=MB&model=300-DT-002&category=All&part=Booster+Vacuum+Hose

The removal of the serpantine belt was easier then expected, actually it seemed easier to remove then the belts on the 617!

I only removed the fan shroud and radiator to do the job. I left the fan on there as it wasnt in the way of removing the vacuum pump or the belt. The old belt was defenetly past due for a change! the belt was cracking and a good chunk of tread was missing on the belt!

I do have some radiator questions though. When i turned over the radiator to get any excess coolent out some orange goop spilt out. My dad was worried about rusty water. It had the correct MB coolent in there not the green stuff.
My guess was that the orange goop was the anticorrosion additive in the MB coolent?
__________________
Current:
05 E320 CDI
07 GL320 CDI
08 Sprinter
05 Dodge Cummins
01 Dodge Cummins

Previous
2004 E55 AMG
2002 C32 AMG (#2)
1995 E300
1978 300D
1987 300D
2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[
1981 300SD
1983 300SD
1987 300SDL
2002 Jetta TDI
1996 S420
1995 S500
1993 190E 2.6
1992 190E 2.3
1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed
Reply With Quote
  #81  
Old 02-19-2007, 11:25 PM
gsxr's Avatar
Unbanned...?
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 8,104
With the right tools, it's much faster to leave the radiator installed, but remove the fan+clutch assembly. And yes, the serpentine belt is fabulous compared to the awful V-belt fiasco on the older engines!!

BTW - that check valve is not available separately. You have to buy the whole Tecalan (plastic) hose assembly with the check valve in the middle. It's brittle after 20 years under the hood anyway, probably a good thing you're replacing it.

Reply With Quote
  #82  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 543
Hey guys Ive read this thread twice, and I still need help with the vacuum pump gasket issue. Ok I have an early engine, so therefore Im supposed to use the "dam" type gastket which isnt sold individually. my 87 parts engine already has the updated style vacuum pump, so im not going to buy a new pump just to get the "dam" gasket.

Is there any way with the early engine to leave the basket in place, and use the new style gasket.

Does anyone have an extra gasket that they will sell?

Does anyone have the vacuum pump PDF file listed earlier in this thread, the links are dead.

Thanks
__________________
1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D
Reply With Quote
  #83  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
I believe the dam type gasket and the basket occupy the same space, so no, you must remove the basket or use the old style outline gasket.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
Reply With Quote
  #84  
Old 03-04-2007, 10:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 543
earlier in this post, it says that the dam style gasket must be used in order to supply enough oil to the pump, So there is no possible way to keep the basket in place on an older style engine, thats not good..... I dont understand, how can the car have survived all this time...
__________________
1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D
Reply With Quote
  #85  
Old 03-05-2007, 02:50 AM
lrg lrg is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,163
I did this repair (3 years ago) and hopefully can clear this up because I too was confused until I did some research.

1. Keeping the basket in the engine is not necessary. As GSXR indicated it is only useful for R&Ring the IP. If you are putting in the new vac pump the benefit of having the basket in is VERY marginal at best. Having seen it I doubt it has actually saved many engines from exploding vacuum pumps. I removed it (but saved it in case I need later).

2. Very early versions of the OM603 had the gasket with the dam to help keep oil in the vacuum pump. On these early engines the pump didn't always get adequate oiling so the dam was designed to hold a pool of oil at the pump to assure proper lubrication. Not long into the production of the engine the oiling system was redesigned slightly such that the oil dam was no longer necessary. At that time I believe the factory no longer used the gasket with the dam. My '87 had the original pump and a conventional gasket from the factory. If you want to you can use the one with the dam but it is not necessary. I chose to not use the dam version because I reasoned I'd be getting fresh oil to the pump rather than from a pool of oil that might accumulate sludge.

From what I understand very few of the very early OM603 engines with the weaker oiling system made it to the US so it's unlikely you really need the older style gasket with the dam but to be safe if you have the original pump with the dam gasket I'd replace it with a dam gasket. Regardless, you can use the gasket with the dam or the basket (or neither) but not both, because the basket will interfere with the dam gasket on reassembly and cause a leak.
__________________
LRG
1987 300D Turbo 175K
2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul
1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold
Reply With Quote
  #86  
Old 03-09-2007, 12:29 AM
gsxr's Avatar
Unbanned...?
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 8,104
LRG pretty much covered it. Engines prior to the break point really should have the dam gasket, but the problem is finding one to install. You can find your engine number on top of the block, behind the main fuel filter, or decode it from the VIN using the EPC. That will confirm if you have an early engine or not. Very few engines fall into this category though. At the moment I still don't have a source for new dam gaskets.

If you install a dam gasket with the basket in place, the pump won't seat, as the dam hits one of the basket mounting bolts. If you started the engine it would dump oil all over the place. It's fine to leave the basket in there if you want, on a later engine, with an outline gasket.

Anyway - I fixed the link in the earlier post (thanks for letting me know!). Here's the link again to the PDF with more details:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/OM603_vac_pump_mod.pdf

Reply With Quote
  #87  
Old 08-21-2007, 11:43 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,638
Dave,

I've joined the club. Now to check this and a bunch of other things.

:-) neil
Reply With Quote
  #88  
Old 08-22-2007, 12:46 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Eastern TN
Posts: 20,851
Neil, did you get the 2.5 listed in the cars forum?

Sixto
87 300D
Reply With Quote
  #89  
Old 08-22-2007, 08:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 1999
Posts: 2,638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Neil, did you get the 2.5 listed in the cars forum?

Sixto
87 300D
1987 300TD contingent on passing a PPI

:-) neil
Reply With Quote
  #90  
Old 08-23-2007, 12:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
I must be lucky, bad lucky. I checked all 3 of my 603 ( '86 or '87 300SDL) engines and all 3 had the old style (smooth end) vacuum pump.

What are the chances of that happening?

P E H

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page