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Well I think they are avoiding the phone for a reason........so they can say , well you should have asked questions before you bought it........and if they don't answer the phone they can't say anything they can get hung on.
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Talked to the selller who was driving the SDL and talking on his cell phone. Nice guy, polite, but did pitch his 123 he is selling a strong. Here are the questions and his answers - let you make your own conclusion.
Do you have all the books and records? No, about 3 years worth and some repair invoices You said the car is rust free - I get dissapointed when this is said and there is rust on the car THere is rust on the driver side rear under the windsheild What are these high performance modifications? I have a Hungarian mechanic that has tweaked the injection. He also lowered the front end - he has a special european adjustment he has done to the pump. Did you Dyno this car No Did you drive it 140MPH yes Where We have some "trade secret streets" up here that we can do this What will this car do 0 -60? I don't know exactly but less than 10 sec. Did you do a compression test on the cyl? yes What was the reading Don't remember but can provide Does everything work on the car Yes Windows? Yes ACC Yes Airbag in steering wheel Yes ABS errh The light comes on now and then - it's just electrical and I will fix Antenna up and down Yes Spare/Jack Yes I don't understand what you are doing with the seatcovers The driver side sheepskin is junk - a new sheepskin will be provided What does the leather look like underneath It's decent What do you mean by decent THere in good shape Are there cracks, tears, holes? No, just a little wear. Sound like a nice car People are amazed because the car gets quieter from 80 -110 mph You state it's mint - there seems to be some cracks on the shifter console Yeah that's normal - I wouldn't replace it. Thanks for your time :D |
There are just too many nice cars out there to take a chance.
Scott |
That guy is so full of s%&t, maybe I will get an old Polish mechanic to tweak mine. :D Lowered front ha ok yeah 140 ok sure I bet. Their is no way a 603 could pull to 140.
Figure it this way 5k is about all a 603 can do what speed would an SDL be going in 4th gear at 5k rpm? (I am math challanged :D ) |
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Well I know H&R makes a lowering kit for the W126, it isn't cheap and the car will ride real stiff. I think it lowers the car 1in or 1.5in. It shouldn't increase top speed though.
Just shy of 120 is about all a strong 300SDL is good for. I have had mine up to 110 and she still had a little left. Other than a little wind noise she drove better than at 60. |
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Bwaaaaaahahahahahaha............ |
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I've got all of you beat. I installed a flux capaciter. Once I hit 88 mph... Scott |
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I've been reading this post with interest and it is entertain at least. I agree that this guy is full of it. I have worked on all types of high performance cars up to and including NASCAR Winston Cup stock cars. (Before the days of NEXTEL). In order to get the 603 to push that car to 140 he would either have to increase the RPM's or steepen the gears. In order to increase the RPMS with enough HP to push that heavy car to those speeds. There would have to be extensive airflow, fuel pressure and balance modifications to the engine that , frankly, cannot be done for the amount of money he has quoted. As for lowering the front end, well that does help if other aerodynamic mods are done and those obviously have not been. That car has a huge frontal area and combined with the weight, it would take in the neighborhood of 400 hp plus to get that heavy SOB to 140 plus. Unless of course it was going down a fairly long downhill grade.
As far as suspensions getting stiffer as you lower them. It's usually because the springs are shorter. Think of them as a straight rod that has been spun into a coil as that is exactly what they are. When you shorten the rod, there is less mechanical advantage to flex it, therefore the stiffer ride. When we would build racing cars, there were some instances where you would want a stiffer ride. I.E. a high banked superspeedway. But on road courses or tracks with low banking, we would use springs with thinner coils for a softer ride. This helps the tires stay in better contact with the surface thereby improving the handling. |
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I can't remember the actual ratio of the SDL so I guessed the diffy ratio at 2:88. I have all this in an Excel spreadsheet so changing the numbers is NBD if I'm wrong. |
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To gain the needed power you need to modify the IP with bigger elements, and then raise RPMS. You can get the OM603 to deliver full power up to 6000 RPMS and little more, but it needs little special modifications to the IP. Ofcourse with those modifications, intercooler is necessary, and so is better exhaust. |
Well, about ten seconds would be about the range that Mauri said the most you could tweak out of these engines, stock. Without pump modifications. BUT, I don't think 140 mph is feasable even with 180 hp pushing a Cd of 0.37. :rolleyes:
He MIGHT be able to squinch out close to 130 mph. After a LONG fight through the last 10 mph. Hit a small grade, or a wind bluster, and that speed drops quickly. BTW, the diffy is a 2.88. At least that's what the casing reads underneath my car after a little degreasing. |
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