Dave, thanks for the input. The first time it used a bit of coolant, (I would guess about two quarts) I pulled the R/H inner fender liner and checked the coolant resevoir, just so I knew that I had a full system. A week or so later I found it low on coolant again, not sure what it took that time, about the same or more, but as this confrimed it was fubar, I then parked it straight away. So hopefully no damage was done.

I am looking for a used head at present, but I am not having much luck, so far every time I find one, it turns out it the yard has not updated their computers for some time, or they just sold it. I still hope to swap out the head, but to tell you the truth, if I could I would just dump the car as is......... I love the way these cars drive, but after looking at a higher cost in unscheduled maintenace in my first year of Mercedes Benz ownership, then in my previous 12 years of Toyota ownership, I will find a way to deal with a ubiquitious tupperware ownership, and just save the enthusiast focus for my motorcycles. The car has excellant service records from the previous owner, so it's well worth doing the head, vacum pump, and climate control pods, but my heart just isn't in it anymore.

If I could tow my motorcycles behind my 84 190D, I would keep it, but I need something that can tow. I may see what I think of the 95 E300D's, but this is material for a another thread.


Happy Holidays, Mack

Mack,

I have a beautiful #14 head that I spent $600 for machine work and pressure testing by a very professional shop. With a light surface cut, valve job, new factory springs and valve seals, I want $1000 for it. This head is straight, clean and shiny, needs your prechambers and injectors, and new exhaust manifold studs. You should be able to get up and running for about $1500, plus your labor.

Or I will buy your car if it is in good condition and still driveable, say to Phoenix. And the price is right!

This discussion about cracked aluminum heads should not be limited to Mercedes. I know for a fact that the 2.0 OHC 4 cylinder engines that GM put in their small cars 88-95, will crack their aluminum heads at the first sign of overheating. The head shops in Phoenix sells hundreds of them every year and you can't find a good used one in the wrecking yards.

the bottom line is keep your engine maintenance up with fresh hoses and belts, and new coolant every 3-5 years. You personally may watch the guages like a hawk, but the first day you loan your car to a friend might be the day the head gets fried. Good maintenance may prevent that random failure and up your odds. Don't overlook the thermal fan clutch and radiator, too, especially the radiators with plastic end covers.

Jim

Jim, thanks for the offer of the head. At this point I want to go with a -17 or later head, as I may "Cool off a bit," and decide to keep the car, who knows? I still hope to find a used -17 head within my self-imposed time line for getting this car back on the road. I still have my 190D and Toyleta PU to drive, and most of the time I get around on a motorcycle, as that is my preferred mode of transportation.

Thanks Again, Mack

with serious questions RE: the # 14 head on his engine.

I'm not the OP, what info are you looking for?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

I guess that the number 14 heads are everything they are cracked up to be. We still have no diffinitive knowledge of the new afternarket spanish heads to use as a baseline though. The price seems right at about 800.00 new.
Especially a concern as a good member has reported an age related softening of the alloy metal on these heads. He is now experimenting with heat treatment methods to try to restore the factory hardness on the used heads. One of his observations is applicable already. If you can see the head bolt area of metal displaced on the used head just run away. Also before doing any work on a used head the hardness should be checked with a rockwell hardness tester or simular instrument obviously.

That is presuming that the heads he tested were proper hardness when new. Impossible to draw a conclusion of softening without hardness data when new.
It might be that variations in the metal properties between heads is the problem from the beginning.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Really good thought. Although one would have to assume that mercedes would have picked this up and rectified the situation. Rather than issuing many other variations of those heads.
I do agree it might be problems in alloys mixes somewhat as far as the cracking goes. Oddly enough if the soft heads he is running into are not cracked that sotness may be their protection from cracking to some extent. For what it costs it may also be benificial to run a water wetter in conjunction with the antifreeze in these engines. That may lesson steam pockets or at least reduce them if and when they occur. May also aid heat transfer in the head to some extent.

I run water wetter in all of my vehicles, cheap insurance.

Could also be something as simple as the system trapping air in the head and not cooling that area effectively. Mercedes didn't provide a bleed plug in the head, ... maybe another possibility?

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

One of the questions you may want to ask yourself when buying an 87D is how long you want to have it. I have had two of these terrific cars, both with a #14 head, and no problems. It has been made clear to all of us that overheating will crack these heads. If you decide you want to have the car for 100 or 150k miles then the 3 grand to replace the head is a lot better than car payements. Also as an FYI, there are different head replacements for the 603 engine... I could be mistaken , but 2 of them are a simple replacement with all the valve components from the original, and the 2 others need diff cam and valve componenets (correct me if I am wrong). People who generally have only had experience with gassers don;t pay much attention to the temp guage in a diesel. I've had MB diesels since 1980, and the temp and oil pressure guages are alwasy on my mind. In a gasser, people simply don;t may much attention to those.. adn tend to tak ethem for granted. Hence a gasser peerson is not particularly attentive to the different and critical temp sensors in a diesel. If I were buying a 603 from a gasser person, I'd be very careful. But agin, this is a terrific car. But you DO have to take care of it, and don;t let just any mechanic touch it with a 20ft pole. Jack D

For peopel who step up from a 240d or an 85 or earlier 300d , the 87 300d is more complex and mroe hi tech. Those older ones were a lot more simple to repair (esp the 240d), and built like the rock of Gibralter. the 603 engine is rock solid, but more complex adn needs a little more attention. If you have ever cruised down the thruway at 75 or 80 mph, you'll know what this car feels like. Jack D