Careful of the # 14 head. Look for a # 17. I keep hearing these things. I've read this thread (awhile ago) Have theory: 603 #14 head fractures. part 1.

It's a good one.

But are there any statistics to support these claims that the #14 head is "junk?" Failure rate for those produced, miles when fail, anything? I'm not saying they don't crack, I just want to know how many really do crack. It's like Pit Bulls: they attack a kid, the whole nation hears about it, but a Golden Retreiver mauls a kid and that'll never make the news. I wonder if that makes sense... Statistically, Pit Bulls are the 7th (or thereabout) most "people friendly" dog breed.

Every car I've been looking at to buy has been a 14, unless it's been replaced. I don't to scared off of a potential good buy becuase people are scared of Pit Bulls.

Thanks all,

B

The problem is that when the Pit Bull bites he won't let go till the full moon comes around. When that #14 head bites it won't let go until it sqeezes a couple or three grand out of your wallet.

Several people here have posted that they have gone well over 200K miles on an original #14 head. When I find the right car (again) I won't let that #14 head stop me. If I see the right deal on a car with an upgraded head, I may buy the car just to get the head.

I agree, there are lots of #14 heads still on the road and running fine.

GSXR might be able to venture a more accurate guess but I'd say, from what I've seen, 5-10% of the OM603's will experience "crack head" issues at some point in their lives.

I would not let a #14 head stand in my way if I say a nice OM603 vehicle that I wanted in my garage.

I'd willing to bet that most if not all #14 head cracks are caused by allowing the engine to overheat. Does everybody know for example that you're not supposed to shut off the engine immediately after driving but give it a little bit of a cool-down time? A lot worse is when a dumb-ass driver keeps on driving with the temperature gauge in the red. Like any other head this head is simply vulnerable to overheating, but a bit more than the others.

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2004 VW Jetta TDI (manual)

Past MB's: '96 E300D, '83 240D, '82 300D, '87 300D, '87 420SEL

My 1987 300D has 205k on it with the #14 head. It runs excellent and has never exhibited any problems whatsoever. The radiator hose is soft when cold and the coolant (MB only) is replaced regularly. BTW, the car never goes much above 80 deg C at any time. It really is a nice engine and I agree with everyone else.. don't let a #14 head scare you away. There are too many good ones out there as proof!

Oh, I think many problems on these cars are indeed related to the failure to cool the engine down after running at high turbo boost. I always make certain that it idles for at least 30 seconds before shutting it down. Especially after a run on the freeway....

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1960 MB 190Db w/ full sunroof
1985 Toyota Pickup
2006 Honda Odyssey EXL R&N
2001 VW Jetta GLS TDI

The original head design is prone to cracking. This does not mean that they all will, but they are MUCH more likely to do so that later versions. They are also (like the #17 head) more likely to blow the head gasket between #1 cylinder and the chain case. Many won't, but a fair proportion will.

Just be aware that overheating WILL bust a #14, and be prepared to spend some money to fix it when it does. Otherwise, no problem.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I agree with PSFRED.. overheating will crack a #14 head for sure!!! Don't ask me how I know..... it wasn't the Ivory 300D!

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1960 MB 190Db w/ full sunroof
1985 Toyota Pickup
2006 Honda Odyssey EXL R&N
2001 VW Jetta GLS TDI

I survived the head replacement and trust me if this wagon hadn't been so hard to find in the first place I probably would have let it go, but I'm sure glad I didn't. My failure was certainly due to over heating. My viscous fan clutch was failing to engage and allowing the car to run warm. I never personally drove it in the red, but I'm sure the PO did.

Please vote in the survey I posted while I was in recovery over my head replacement:

603.96 Engine Head Crack Survey

I think the best advice is to try to avoid one that is already exhibiting the cracked head symptoms or negociate the head replacement cost into the deal and then take care of it like the guys on the form suggest and chances are good that you'll enjoy your car for a long time. As the survey points out with 24 respondants so far. A cracked head is far from a sure thing.

Good luck,

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-Mike
'87 300TD 304kmi (RIP)
'95 Toyota Camry Wagon 125kmi

My SDL had the "14" head. I'm not going to worry about it. I'll do all that I can to protect my head, but if it goes it goes. I love my car. I really enjoy it. I'll do what it takes to fix it. I've put about 45k miles on it and it keeps on ticking like the "Everyready Bunny".

All vehicles have problems, some more than others, but you can't worry every day about a head. You probably have a better chance of someone plowing into your car, than your head cracking.

Anyone have any preventative maintenance on caring for the head?
Any symptoms of a head cracking or going bad?

From what I have read on this forum, it really varies from car to car. The one thing that seems consistant is cooling system pressure when cold, as in the next morning. The system will come up to pressure rapidly, prior to the coolant temp being high enough to be causing the pressure increase. (Dave M. has contributed a lot of info concerning this issue, if you have not read his posts, a search of GSXR is well worth the time. Thanks, Dave.)

My car started to run a bit warmer then normal at idle. It was irratic, sometimes staying in the same range as normal, other times it seemed just a tad higher then it should be. The first real tip was the hard rad hoses when cold, then I noticed it started to climb too rapidly at idle. Eventually it ran too hot, (not overheating) but just too hot for a 603 in good trim, and then it started to use some coolant, this was erratic as well, but once it was obvious it was going through coolant, I parked it. (Once the system goes into this mode, it can no longer recover coolant from the catch tank, unless you pop the radiator cap as soon as you shut down, so that as the system cools it can pull a vacum.) Popping the radiator cap on shut down will temporarilly elliminate most of the symptoms.

In the Summer I would go to the bank and while waiting in line i'd notice the temp gauge rise almost into the RED, but not quite. However when I got out on the road and was moving the temp moved back down to around 80-90 range. I haven't noticed any need for coolant. It worried me that this it would rise that high on while idleing. I do watch it all the time but here lately it's been fine with the cooler weather.

Mine never really showed any erratic temperature issues, although since replacement the temp runs maybe a couple degrees cooler than before. The cold pressure and ever increasing coolant usage were my signs.

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Keep everything as simple as possible-but no simpler--Albert Einstein

Warning that is not normal at all! I could never get mine over 100C no matter what I did last summer. I would say 105C is about as warm as a 603 ever should run.

Did the electric fan come on? How old is your radiator?

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I bought a SDL with 166,000 miles and a -14 head. After 4000 miles it started to eat coolant and exhaust white smoke. It never overheated while I owned it. I decided to spend the $3000+ to replace the head with a new one (-22). When I pulled the old head it had cracks on three cylinders, between the valves and between the valves and the prechambers. I suspect the previous owner overheated it at some time, even though I was told it was never overheated. In hindsight, I should of suspected something because the radiator, water pump, and thermostat were all replaced prior to the sale.

It runs well now, but I have invested considerable more money in it than I had originally planned. I wish I had been more familiar with this forum before I bought the car. I probably paid $3000 too much. However, I now have a great running SDL and am looking forward to many years of service.

This is rather interesting. The PO replaced the radiator, water pump, and thermostat prior to the sale. Is it possible that he overheated it just before selling it? Are you positive that the engine was OK for 4,000 miles before any symptoms began to show up?

This might shed some light on how long it takes for cracking to develop after a serious overheat event.