Have any of you replaced your rear subframe mounts on the 126 chassis? I would like to do these and the rear differential mount at the same time. I plan to buy a heavy duty floor jack at Sams club. They have a nice Michelin floor jack for only $69. What other tools do I need and once I have the differential sitting on the jack stands, where do I go from there? I looked at this link http://business.baylor.edu/Richard_Easley//autofaqs/sframe.htm and it was helpful.

Honestly, how difficult is this repair?? I think it will fix my sagging rear end.

__________________
1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

It's kind of a PITA. Its easy to get them out but hard to get them in and hard to get them to stay in - they keep wanting to pop out. When I did them in hot weather I put them in the freezer to shrink them. I don't know if that helped. The tricky part was getting the center bolt back in while the mount was trying to slide out. I put a jack under the big bolt and jacked the bolt into its seat. That was a bit scary as it have been easy to cross-thread it

__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

For the differential mount, place the jackstands under the frame and the jack under the differential. You will need to be able to raise and lower the differential to get the new mount lined up. Replacing the differential mount is very easy.
The subframe mounts are another story. Technically simple but quite aggravating for the reasons that rs899 mentioned. Getting the large bolt started is easier if you have a bottle jack. Place the jack under the bolt to lift it. Turn the bolt while the jack is pressing the bolt upward. The bolt is tapered to help prevent cross-threading.