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#1
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glow plug reamer - pic
I thought I show everyone what comes out when you use a glow plug reamer... it's definately removes some crud!
I replaced my braided rubber diesel hoses near the injectors, so I had the hard lines off so I did glowplugs at the same time...
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#2
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another pic
ick!
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#3
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Good work here.
I just used one for the first time and got some stuff but not as much as you did. Thanks Don
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DAILY DRIVERS: '84 300DT 298k (Aubrey's) '99.5 Jetta TDI IV 251k (Julie's) '97 Jetta TDI 127k (Amber's) '97 Jetta TDI 186k (Matt's) '96 Passat TDI 237k (Don's '84 300D 211k Mint (Arne- Undergoing Greasecar Conversion) SOLD: '82 240D 229k (Matt's - Converted-300DT w/ 4 speed ![]() |
#4
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Is there a homemade reamer
Reading the threads, I'm sold on the importance of using a reamer to clean carbon deposits, but I'm put off by the desribed cost of the reamer, a tool that I'd use once in forever. I'm gonna be pulling the glow plugs out related to tracing down a nailing noise.
The pictures in this thread nicely show a glow plug reamer is a very simple tool, that would seem to cost pennies to manufacture. (Thanks for the post with picture bodyart 27, it is the picture that is worth a thousand words that made me "get" what is being talked about in other threads.) Is there something special like really fine tollerances, and dangers if you miss, that there is no discussion of a homemade tool for cleaning the carbon out of the glow plug area? |
#5
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That is the point. If you use it before installing new glow plugs, the glow plugs will last "forever". If you don't, they can burn out in a relatively short amount of time depending on the amount of carbon in the hole. From my experience, new plugs burned out in 3 to 12 months before I got a reamer. After reaming out the holes, the next set has not burned out yet (2 years so far). So, for less then the cost of a set of glow plugs, and no labor to replace them (again), the reamer is a financially viable investment. IMO just get the correct reamer that was made for your engine and don't mess around with drill bits, screw drivers, smashed glow plugs, and what ever else you can think of to dig around in there.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#6
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This weekend I plan on replacing the glow plugs and reaming the holes.
Rather than renting a reamer, and after finding out that Diesel911 was out of stock, I wound up buying a reamer through Baum Tools' eBay store (alkyracer101) for about $40 including shipping. The tool is nice, however I was a little disappointed that the hex end, the end you put the wrench on to turn it, is made out of aluminum stock. I also think the hex is 1/2" and not 13mm, as all of of my 13mm wrenches are rather loose on it. I hope this does not lead to stripping the hex while turning it. I also wonder about the threads of the tool cross threading easily. If there are serious issues, I may just cut the hex part off the tool and weld the reamer portion to an old glow plug. These are observations so that someone who is considering buying one in the future knows what they will receive. I will give an update after I use the tool to let everyone know how it works. |
#7
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Quote:
The Factory made Aluminum Hex one is entirely stong enough for the job. If you have any sort of build up at all you will find that you will hit the build up before the thread on the Reamer even reach the Head. You simply turn the reamer clockwise until it cuts through the Carbon. Eventually the Reamer goes in enough that you can thread it in. If you thread it in by hand there will be no cross threading issue. You will only need a wrench once in awhile to go through a hard spot in the Carbon.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#8
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thanks for the advice! i plan on taking my time and going slowly. i am expecting a major battle with these glow plugs and their respective holes. i am 100% certain that the previous owner never changed them in the 6 years she owned the car, and i see no mention of glow plugs in any of the hand written notes from the owner before that, so who knows how long they have been in there. ugh.
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#9
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Reamer
Where can you buy these?
I wondered if a small wire bristle brush would work..... |
#10
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Where can you buy these?
One source for car tools:
http://www.zdmak.com/ I would not use a wire brush, there is the possibility that bristles will come off in the precombustion chamber. The reamer just fits and has enough clearance to be a safe tool for this purpose. DDH
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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting! |
#11
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Reamer cost $40
Thanks. Got the store and price. On page four of your tool link they've got the tool, using this description.
Mercedes Reamer number 901-0053 This "Pencil Type " Reamer ( 12 x 1.25 ) is used for removing carbon buildup in Diesel Glow Plugs which is a major cause of glow plug failure. Same as Mercedes number 901-589-0053-00 Applicable: OM 601, 615, 616, and 617 $39.99 While its worth more than forty to fix the problem, the tool looks like something that a homemade version might exist. |
#12
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What happens to the carbon that falls down inside?
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Alan Hamm '87 300SDL 277K Miles '89 560 SL 68K Miles |
#13
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If you put a heavy grease (like wheel bearing grease) in the grooves (flutes) of the reamer it traps most of the carbon in the grooves. You do need to wipe off the grease and renew the grease between doing each hole. The grease idea is in the manual.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by whunter; 12-04-2009 at 10:10 AM. Reason: attached picture |
#14
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If you put Grease in the grooves (Flutes) of the Reamer it traps the Carbon in the Grease.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#15
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I am of the opinion that if there is enough carbon to be reamed out, then the pre-chamber should come out and be cleaned. This will not be that much more work and the results are far better IMHO.
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