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#1
01-04-2005, 04:54 PM
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12V power source (switched, W201)
Hey folks -- just posted this in the Tech forum, but you folks always respond more quickly
I got a set of euro lights for my 88 190E (2.3) and would like to hook the little 5W city lights up to come on with the ignition (as daytime running lights) rather than just hook them in with the side marker lights. Is there an easy way to do this? Anyone know of a suitable 12+ volt supply that could be tapped for this purpose? Many thanks!!! Chris
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's) 
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#2
01-04-2005, 09:04 PM
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I don't have a circuit diagram for the 190E, but it seems to me there are a number of items connected to the ignition switch, and I believe there are some extra terminals for each position on most cars. If not, you can try the radio power supply with a suitable fuse. These lights are pretty dinky. Sorry I couldn't be more definitive, good luck, Jim
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Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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#3
01-05-2005, 09:45 AM
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Thanks Jim! If anyone else knows of a switched source in the engine compartment, please let me know!
Chris
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)
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#4
01-05-2005, 04:04 PM
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The best bet is to run a line off a switched terminal in the fusebox. Find a high capacity line (i.e. a fat wire) and crimp your new wire to the supply (prefuse) side of the fuse and attach a new, inline fuse on your line as close as possible. Then run the line down to your lights from there.
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LRG 1987 300D Turbo 175K 2006 Toyota Prius, efficent but no soul 1985 300 TDT(130K miles of trouble free motoring)now sold
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#5
01-05-2005, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Thanks! Chris
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1992 300D 2.5T 1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold) 1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy" 1974 Triumph TR6 1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)
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#6
01-05-2005, 04:26 PM
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Your only drawing 1 Amp of power.
Power (Watts) = Current (amps) X Voltage Thus Current = Power divided by Voltage 10/12<1 I would feel comfortable tapping into any switched circuit - just check the owners manual to see what fuses protect what and used a 'Least Strained' circuit. Stephen
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98 K2500 Suburban 6.5 Luxo Barge "We cannot change the wind - But we can adjust our sails"
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#7
01-05-2005, 05:06 PM
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I would try to find a circuit that is powered only when the engine is running. But that is just me. Some of your circuits are engineered to cut-out as the voltage drops after your alternator fails. It would be nice if the lights dropped out of the circuit at a reasonable point. You want your fuel pump next to the last and emergency flashers to be the last active circuit.
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#8
01-05-2005, 05:07 PM
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Rear lites
For the rear running lights, why don't you tap into the trunk lite circuit? Should be pretty simple to do and easy to run the wires. Would this work?
Henry
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63 190d (sold) 69 220D (sold) 69 280SL (sold) 76 BMW 2002 (sold) 86 190E-16v (Demised at Laguna Seca Turn 9) 87 300SDL (sold) 87 300SDL 135k 87 300TD 280k (sold) 95 E320W 211k 95 E320w 111k 05 C320 4matic 06 E320 CDI 90k (Totaled by a texting 19 year old girl in a nissan) 2013 GLK 250 Bluetek 4MATIC
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