300 SD front shock change question

[jones]

Purchased two new front shocks for my 83 300SD. Got the front all jacked up and noticed the 12 sided bolts securing the lower shock body. Trips to NAPA stores -across town of course-netted the proper metric socket.

However, I can only remove the 'outside' bolt. The shock body is in the way of the inside bolt. After removing the upper nuts, I lowered the jack, hoping to free the top end of the shock. No luck.

I thought of torching the shock body in half, but was afraid that replacement would be stymied.

What is the proper manner to change out SD front shocks?

BTW, control arm bushings are shot. Is replacement a big deal?
Thanks.

[Ganaraska]

You are trying to remove a permanent bracket - put the bolt back in and leave it alone. Take out the single horizontal bolt at the bottom of the shock.

[Ganaraska]

The top of the shock is secured by a double nut or 2 nuts jammed together. If you took out both of them the shock should have pulled out when you lowered the wheel.

Not to be smart but if you are having difficulty removing the shocks you should take the control arm bushing job to a mechanic.

Be very careful, the shock is all that holds the front suspension up. If you let it go down too far the spring could go flying. It packs a mean wallop. I have seen good mechanics lose teeth for less.

[Ganaraska]

Don't try to remove the shock by lowering the wheel beyond it's normal travel. Support the wheel securely at the bottom of its travel. Take out the bolt, remove the nuts and push the shock down or drive it down with a hammer and punch.

[tangofox007]

You probably won't be able to get a socket on the inside bolt, but a 12 point box end wrench should work. You might have to jack up the lower control arm (or put the wheels back on the pavement) to change the angle of the shock so you can get access to the bolt.
The lower control arm bushings are a big deal primarily because you need a Mercedes specific spring compressor to do the job safely.

[Brian Carlton]

I've done the exact same job recently and had the exact same difficulties.

You can get a 12 point box wrench in there, but just barely. It took me over 1/2 hour to get that damn screw out and another 1/2 hour to get the new screw back in.

A better solution, which I have subsequently found out, is to force the piston down below the body and fender and rotate the shock outward away from the vehicle. Now the screw is out from under the shock and readily accessible.

[t walgamuth]

it seems i have done this... i think that if you undo the top first and tilt the shock out the back 12 piont bolt is accessable with an extension.

double the warning on the spring if it flys out i would think you can lose more than the teeth.