Well...
The way I am asking about is using the factory tool I mentioned earlier.
It a special tool with a plunger that's inserted by removing a bolt on the IP unit.
You set the crank at 15 deg ATDC - chain stretch. then you move the pump until the plunger on the tool clicks in and locks the timing in place. Then you tighten down the IP and that's supposed to set timing perfectly.

Anyone ever heard of this before?

Thanks for the coffee can idea I may just use that.

Danny

I've seen pictures and description of it in the FSM, but it failed to induce the urge to open up my wallet.

I screwed around with the drip and "welling up" methods of timing the IP for weeks before I subscribed to Pindelski's site and then bought the Mercedes Benz "factory Timing Tool" #W 601 589 05 21 00 - bargain of the century, IMHO. Presto, perfect timing, with timing chain stretch factored in. Best running 617 I have ever had (of 3). This is not a paid political announcement, just a description of what finally did the trick for me. I thought I could just pull the IP straight out, replace the bad gasket and then slide it back in - but no joy until I reset it to the correct datum using the MB tool - I love the unambiguous way it snaps into the pump's detent. When I reinstalled the IP it ran perfectly - no smoke. I tweaked the idle with a new rack damper bolt and she's good to go. Now if I can get the chassis sorted out...

Cool, how much did you pay and where did you buy it?

Special order from the MB dealer - full retail is like $35 for the tool. Seriously, the bargain of the century (my time is worth at least $35/month!). Knockoffs are on Ebay all the time for something like $25. The drip timing technique apparently works for some folks, but for me it was like friggin voodoo - way too many variables. When this tool clicks into place, there is absolutely no doubt where the pump it set, just dial the motor timing in to match and bolt the IP into place.

OK..that the weird knob on a shaft type thing....I've seen tose listed on ebay...

I correct myself, more like $70 on ebay (why pay twice dealer price?):
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42337&item=3866419170&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

Thats so high becasue it includes a delivery valve socket too....but yes thats the one I have seen for about $25 alone on ebay.

This sold recently on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43989&item=4546834274&rd=1

FYI, the tool is slightly different for pre-82 model IP's. Got one on ebay for $30 bucks. MB dealer wanted $117.00. :eek: Plus tax! :eek: :eek:
You did get the bargain of the century.
Anyone have the instructions on how these work? Is it explained on the Pindelski site? I might have to subscribe to that site after all.... :confused:

Yes, it's explained on Pindelski's site.

Danny

James, your post No. 8 looks like the ticket to me. Do you have the governor hooked up and operating? Is it a vacuum or mechanical governor? For safety's sake, you should be able to shut off the engine from outside the engine compartment if you're going to drive it down the road - this uses different vacuum than a vacuum operated governor. So.... yes, you should try to get the vacuum lines connected. Also make sure the engine can breathe - i.e. crank vent.

As far as the timing goes, remember it's not a race car and it's not supposed to be rocket science. One drop per second is what you'll get if you use exactly the same setup as the person who wrote 'one drop per second'. You'll have enough fuel in the secondary filter for maybe two tries before you need to pump it up. You should see a gush then a steady run then a dramatic transistion to a drip. Set it at that transition or maybe a half degree past, then watch your performance and fuel mileage. Tweak if you really, really want to as the exact spot will be where your car likes it, and depends on what shape the injection pump, injectors and timing chain are in.

Injection pump oil
 

Where does the injection pump get it's oil from? Does it get oil from the engine oil circuit?
I'm asking because when you use the factory timing tool you loose oil and I want to know if you have to manually relace the oil.

Danny