Leave it as is but do post 0-60 times as I wonder how this is affecting performance. Have you ever driven a 300D that had a turbo which belonged there? If so, how did they compare?

Thanks
David

You may be able to confirm, or at least see what your car came equipped with. This site will give you engine and tranny serial numbers...just input your vin number.

http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng

Ok so I have been out of town this weekend but just got back from running the Benz. On a country road, with no incline at all, I was able to get 0-60 in about 20 seconds or so. I am not sure if the turbo is in fact working or not.

I also checked the VIN on the motor with the russian site, and they match. So it doesnt have the turbo engine it it for sure.

turboed?
 

i dont know how to check the numbers of the block etc. my inclination is that if you have put 80,000 trouble free miles on it and if the turbo is present and on the job that you do have a turbo block.

i have looked at bare short blocks of the turbo and non turbo motors and i own both and have had both rebuilt. there are a number of differences that can be visually checked that will reveal a turbo from a non turbo block.

1. the non turbo pulleys look a lot like 240 d pulleys. there is a single belt to the alternator instead of a double on the turbo motor. also the turbo motor has a larger harmonic damper and a longer nose on the front of the crank to take the larger harmonic balancer. the larger hb will not fit onto the non turbo crank. i suggest looking at your motor along side a known us spec turbo motor and a 240 motor and make the above visual comparisons. i believe that the turbo motor has a much ribbed aluminum oil pan and the non turbo pan is plain aluminum. the small pan at the front sump is very similar and is pressed steel in all of the motors. there are probably other visual clues that i have f0rgotten or never knew. i think that there are differences in the head too but cant remember specifics.

2. you also could pull the small oil pan and look up into the motor for the oil squirters. i am not positive that you can see them but i suspect that if you could look at a bare block for the visual clues youcould find them inside your motor with a small mirror if necessary.

from your last post you have already assumed the correct attitude which is not to panic until you get more info. i am thinking that you probably have either a turbo block or a non functioning turbo, either way probably not a problem.

I believe I would dissent from most of the opinions offered here on whether to keep the turbo. As it is, your turbo is dead weight. You may have added some modest intake, but without the concomitant fuel delivery (adjusted via the ALDA), you are getting only superficial horsepower gains, if any. Furthermore, it's possible that the added weight of the turbo will only further diminish performance. If it's not meant to be turbocharged, why gild the lily? ;)

So are the blocks the same NA vs. turbo, and they just have different bolt on parts?

If the engine has lasted this long, maybe it was rebuilt inside and out to be a turbo engine? If it has the longer crank and harmonic balancer and other things that t walgamuth mentioned, you maybe in good shape.

IMO, if it has the turbo crank/balancer(which would require a proper tear down), I would get the alda parts make everything working per design intent. You might get some additional performance and fuel economy. But you might also push the engine over the edge and melt a piston like the others did. Then install a proper turbo motor. If your car is already a "cut and paste," why not go for broke? :) Again, just my opinion.

Isnt 300dturbo's 60 time more like 14-15 seconds?

If I do a mashed to the floor kickdown my SD reaches 60 on flat ground in under 13 seconds...so I would think a 300D would be a bit better than that since its lighter....but 20 seconds sounds like no turbo boost or very very little is happening.

European models came with both non-turbo and turbodiesels up to 1985. This is well documented, and I have one - my '84 300TD wagon is a euro-model WITH the OM617.952 engine. And I have seen many overseas with and without turbos on their diesels. My buddy in Florida has an '83 300D and his is NA. Soemtimes you see the later model NA diesels Euro-versions on Ebay too... Decoding your VIN should validate your car if it indeed has the .612 instead of the .652 engine. If someone added a turbo, well - take Brian's advise - don't beat on it, you should be okay.... :o

Well I havent ever beat it up, it is mainly just in town driving, so no drag strips for me.

The VIN on it is WDB1231301A222249. If someone can tell me if it came with the .612 or the .652 that would be great.

Well... notice on the Russian site - your car's "Approximate Year" reads "1979". According to their database, your car is either a 1979 or a 1980 model - hence it left the production line with the OM617.912 engine. That Russian site's approximate year is really the production year (not the model year) therefore your car may be a 1980 300D model - which was non-turbo back in '80 (I had a 1980 300D Non-Aspirated). Check your plate at the driver-side door jamb - the production date is stamped there (on the "Certification Tag" at the left door pillar... AND/OR check behind the seatbelts - the seatbelt dates (look at the belt where it mounts on the floor - it's stamped in ink so they may be a little faded) is another telltale sign on when your car was assembled.... another way is - check behind each of your gauges in the instrument cluster (if it has not been swapped out yet) and you will see the factory date stamps of month/year all over there...

Carson356 just ran the VIN also on the Mercedes EPC database and your car was assembled with the "617912 12 161823" engine - therefore your car originally had the non-turbo engine. Check your engine block - maybe the PO took out the old engine and put in a .952 engine.... (the engine number is right below/next to the IP unit). The EPC is 100% correct - it is MB's database electronic catalog -they use it for obtaining vehicle information (like we just did) for purpose of parts and service. I can send you the copy of the EPC data card for your car - just PM me.

Well the number behind the IP, which I am told is the engine number is:

R 617 011 09 04

There is also a number at the bottom but I cant make it out(kinda tired) but there is the number 84 at the end, maybe the year of the engine??

This is a puzzle that I am piecing together, kinda fun, kinda a pain, hopefully worth it.


Correction, I was looking in the wrong place.

The engine number is 617 912 12 161 823, the orininal 300D engine, not equiped for the turbo.

Now that I know the turbo prob, isnt doing anything, what do I need to do to take it off correctly. I know there is an oil line going from the oil filter housing to the turbo, I guess to give it oil to keep it lubercated. Do I remove it, the air filter bracket, intake manifold, exhaust manifold and EGR valve? Or am I just better leaving it on and not worrying about since it most likely will not cause harm?

Why not just leave it the way it is... don't try to fix something that isn't broken - and yes, you MAY do more harm if you start this project... You say it runs fine, you don't beat on it, and you have not had problems with the turbo, etc... you just answered your questions - like most others suggested: "Enjoy the car..." Now my other question, is the 300D a '79 '80 or what year?? Check those places I stated in my earlier post... IMO, it's always fun (or nerve-wracking) to authenticate/validate a W123's past history... I guess that's why I'm a W123 addict! :D

From the door seal, and what I could gather from behind the seat belts, it is a 1980 300D.

I will keep the turbo in, even know it doesnt do much except take up space.

I thank all who have pitched in on this topic and hope to have some pics of the ordeal up soon.

If it comes down to rebuilding the engine, I will rebuild without a turbo. As the same time I am upset that it isnt a turbo, I am relieved that I know what it really is.

This is my first car, paid $1500 when I was 17. I will never get rid of the Fox, ever. It is a part of me, and I will enjoy this car until it is no longer able to fix, or I die. The only thing left to do is take off the Turbo Diesel lettering on the trunk and replace with only Diesel.

Since a properly running turbocharged 617 will produces 0-60 times around 14 seconds, the 20 second time would be dead on for a 617 n/a engine.

The turbo engine has approx. 50% more hp than the n/a engine and your elapsed times correlate very well with this number.

So, at the present time, you have a turbocharged engine that is not making more than about 80 hp. You cannot damage it in this condition. You would need to add an ALDA and determine any other associated hardware required to get the boost level up. Then you could begin to worry about excessive heat in the combustion chamber. ;)

If the engine still has the original Injection pump, will the addition of an ALDA be possible or useful? Doesn't this earlier IP also have a different (lower) fuel delivery capability? Think there are still a few unanswered questions as far as utilizing the currently dormant turbo. What say you engine experts?