300 SDL Lug Bolts - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

klombard · #1 05-23-2005, 10:38 PM

Any suggestions on where to find the long lug Bolts for the wheels on a 300SDL?
The MB dealers states they are not made anymore.

H-townbenzoboy · #2 05-23-2005, 10:43 PM

That's odd, the dealer here still has them for the older 14" bundt cake rims, I wonder why they can't get you some for your car?

Brian Carlton · #3 05-23-2005, 10:48 PM

Welcome to the forum. The dealer is correct. He can't get them anymore.

But:

You can get them here:

https://www.***************/catalog/lookup_parts.cfm?SubcategoryID=7680&VehicleID=1194072&CFID=633493&CFToken=20416643

Verify the length prior to purchase.

If you only need one or two, I might have some extras that you can have.

Hatterasguy · #4 05-23-2005, 11:21 PM

Well what the dealer said is 1/2 true.

The crappy old style with the extended heads are not made anymore. The heads on those can break off if an impact gun used by some idiot cranks them on to a million ft pounds.

The new style works fine it just doesn't look the same. I prefer the new ones actually.

daverdla · #5 05-24-2005, 08:50 PM

Doesn't fastlane still have them? I bought one a couple of months ago. I just had the pleasure of some clown at the wheel alignment shop snapping another one.
Dave

Johnhef · #6 05-24-2005, 09:02 PM

I switched all mine out after seeing too many break. We get old 126's in that have sat for years. they're guarenteed to have at least 2 or 3 snap off, although you're right, usually some idiot ran them on too tight. Best advice to get them off when they wont budge is to use a long breaker bar and have someone stand on the bar while hitting the end of the socket with (at least) a 4lb hammer. They'll either come loose ...or snap

Brian Carlton · #7 05-24-2005, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

I switched all mine out after seeing too many break. We get old 126's in that have sat for years. they're guarenteed to have at least 2 or 3 snap off, although you're right, usually some idiot ran them on too tight. Best advice to get them off when they wont budge is to use a long breaker bar and have someone stand on the bar while hitting the end of the socket with (at least) a 4lb hammer. They'll either come loose ...or snap

I'm sure you have tightened these with a torque wrench to the specified torque of 80 lb.-ft.

It is really amazing how low this value really is. I can break them loose with a 1/2" socket wrench, with a bit of effort. At this torque level, you can't snap them off no matter how long they have been on there.

Just picture the torque utilized if a two foot breaker bar is required to remove them.

Anytime this one has to visit a tire or alignment shop, I stay with it and hand them the socket wrench. I torque it later, myself.

Johnhef · #8 05-24-2005, 09:49 PM

a lot of the ones I see might have been torqued to spec but after years of sitting, have rusted or corroded in place. On one wheel for example, 3 bolts came out with ease, the other two twisted, then snapped.

Brian Carlton · #9 05-24-2005, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

a lot of the ones I see might have been torqued to spec but after years of sitting, have rusted or corroded in place. On one wheel for example, 3 bolts came out with ease, the other two twisted, then snapped.

They corrode on the threads in the hub??

No way to warm them up, that's for sure.

Johnhef · #10 05-24-2005, 09:58 PM

Yep.

At my old shop someone had made a tool to protect the wheel when you have to drill them out. A hardened hollow cylinder welded to a plate with two guide rods that fit into the holes for the alignment tool to hold it in place.

Had to cut them out once with the torch too, that was fun.

Brian Carlton · #11 05-24-2005, 10:01 PM

So, they snap off above the spherical seat, and not at the threads??

This would indicate that the spherical seat is seized to the wheel!

The threads haven't even begun to accept the torque and the fastener snaps.

No way that wheel was tightened properly.

dieseldiehard · #12 05-24-2005, 11:34 PM

I always apply a dab of anti-sieze compound to the lug threads and use a torque wrench.
I was just planning to visit a tire shop that I found. I will ask them if they use a torque bar or torque wrench for lug bolts.
I also want to see how they mount balancing weights (should be grey plastic covered weights with special adhesive. There is no rim for clip on weights on my new CLK wheels, which I need lug bolts for

I am always seeking a good tire shop. There are too many I will never send anyone to! One torqued my theft reduction wheel locks to the point it would not come off without damaging the pins on the removal head. They also lost the dust caps for one, and I can go on and on . . . Sorry!

Johnhef · #13 05-24-2005, 11:52 PM

which rims did you get? I have a few extra sets of lug bolts off new cars here.

dieseldiehard · #14 05-25-2005, 01:09 AM

I describe the wheels as "almost bundt style aluminum alloy with 7 spokes" from a 1999 CLK320. I believe that I need 61mm lug bolts w/ ball seats as usual for alloy wheels. Johnhef, please PM me if you have some bolts. Thanks!
ps p/n 208 401 00 02 7J16H2 Et 37 I believe

Johnhef · #15 05-25-2005, 08:28 PM

Ill have to check a CLK next time I see one with those rims on it. Most of the ones I have were ones from 203 or 210's. I have a bunch of them because the tips show discoloration on them, so people wanted them replaced. I use them on all of my old cars with updated rims. I think the lugs that go with your rims are supposed to have a chrome-ish tip at the end of them since the whole head is exposed.

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