How to fix wobbly air cleaner?

[WannaWagon]

OK, I know this is something we all struggle with. On my car, I replaced the air cleaner bracket and "rubbers" only about 5 months ago, and two out of the three rubbers are complete shot already. I don't want to just replace them again, but fix the damn thing for good. Has anybody ever mounted the air cleaner to the bracket with some kind of solid mounts, like short studs? Would this work? Do you have another solution?

[JamesStein]

Until you settle the engine down its hopeless.

Have you...

a) checked/replaced the engine mounts and the engine shocks?
b) adjusted or replaced the rack dampener bolt?
c) adjusted valves?

I just replaced the braket on my 300CD. I'm thinking about putting the old broken one back on it makes such a racket now. And no.. I haven't done those things to my CD yet. Getting my wifes 300D's timing chain replaced is the next expense on my list.

[tangofox007]

I used to have the same problem on a '82 300D. I finally fixed the underlying problem-excessive engine "shake" at idle. After stopping the "shakes" I have not broken an air cleaner mount. A new and properly adjusted governor idle pin (aka rack damper pin) was the solution.

[deeph8]

you can add some more shock absorbing capacity by using wire ties to attach pieces of heater hose onto the metal bracket. works pretty well for me.

[Hit Man X]

Originally Posted by JamesStein

Until you settle the engine down its hopeless.

Have you...

b) adjusted or replaced the rack dampener bolt?

What is this you speak of?

[pawoSD]

The rack damper bolt is found on the back side (facing the firewall) of the injection pump towards the bottom of it, its a bolt with a locknut on it, and you loosen the locknut, then adjust how far the bolt is in or out to adjust for engine shake, then retighten the locknut. I did this to mine, and it solved both shake and cold starting problems (it would shut right back off after being started cold, now you can't kill the thing ) It takes some trial and error to get it perfect, I did it three times.

[pberku]

Mercedes has redesigned those rubber mounts. They are now much more robust.

Phil

[BoostnBenz]

I got new mounts, new heat shield, welded the bracket, got a new filter and all then it was rattling. So I did the ultimate fix, I took it off and got a K&N filter that clamps directly on the turbo. No more rattles, no more of the factory airbox problems, plus the turbo is a good deal louder now.

[Hit Man X]

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The rack damper bolt is found on the back side (facing the firewall) of the injection pump towards the bottom of it, its a bolt with a locknut on it, and you loosen the locknut, then adjust how far the bolt is in or out to adjust for engine shake, then retighten the locknut. I did this to mine, and it solved both shake and cold starting problems (it would shut right back off after being started cold, now you can't kill the thing ) It takes some trial and error to get it perfect, I did it three times.

ooooo! Mine tends to die when it's chilly out also on a cold morning.

Did you end up going in or out? Any pics of this area in question or is this just a single bolt to hit?

[whunter]

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

What is this you speak of?

http://engine.articles.mbz.org/diesel/rackbolt/

[pawoSD]

If it wasn't so cold out I'd take some pics....maybe I will tomorrow...but my bolt was tighened ALL the way in, in fact, I had to REALLY work to get it loose, the last person to adjust it must have been insane. I ended up loosening it several turns, then retightening the lock nut. Huge improvement. Its noticeable and not hard to find, its right between the oil filter canister and the back of the injection pump and it sticks out. Its a pretty tight squeeze in there adjusting it with the car on (for best results to get rid of all engine shake) and it tends to be WARM when your hand goes against the oil filter cansiter, VERY warm. When I adjusted mine I slipped off the bolt with my wrench it was so tight, and got an inch long cut on the top of my hand from the side of the engine on something sharp....then I burned myself twice on the oil canister. Sigh. I got it set perfect though!

[BoostnBenz]

I've gotten to the point where if I have a part off the vehicle or easy to smooth out I take those sharp edges off. If I don't, then sometime down the road I'm sure it'll get me again. Two of the biggest improvements for working on stuff is ridding of the factory airbox, then probably those (sharp edged) clamps on the fuel injector lines. Fuel hose clamps are turned so the edge can't be caught very easily while working on things.

[odie]

do you have the little metal cups under the rubber air cleaner mounts?

If not, that is your problem. They are heat shields and extend the life of those mounts.

One of my MDs was missing them, and the mounts were shot.

I have broke a few of the mounts, have a chronic light to moderate engine shake. I finally put a hose clamp around the exhuast, then ran a three inch bolt down from the air cleaner, and ran a spring from the clamp up to the hose clamp to the bottom of the air cleaner. Used a nut and clamp on the long bolt to secure the spring. The bolt then runs through the middle of the spring and everything now stays in place.
Cost was about $3. Not a bad fix. Now it don't shake the air cleaner all over.

[WannaWagon]

Originally Posted by BoostnBenz

I got new mounts, new heat shield, welded the bracket, got a new filter and all then it was rattling. So I did the ultimate fix, I took it off and got a K&N filter that clamps directly on the turbo. No more rattles, no more of the factory airbox problems, plus the turbo is a good deal louder now.

Got any pix/part numbers for your K&N setup? Didn't see any info on your site. I've thought of doing this myself and would appreciate any tips. Did you attach the K&N directly to the turbo or with a hard pipe in between? What did you do about the stock oil breather setup?