thanks for all the tips guys!i'll have to double check if they did indeed shim the pre chambers, how do i check this on my own without removing the prechamber(which i can't)? i can just measure the protrusion, anybody have specs for this?

the haynes manual that i have is for a mercedes w124, it includes all the engine variations. it vdoes have all the numerical specs listed, though i'll have to check if it has the prechamber protrusion number.

about the lifters: they are very easy to depress, all of 'em are, i guess they've been drained of oil, they can be primed manualy right?
IF ever, is it bad to run bad lifters? does it do physical damage or just the performance?

btw, while i was doing initial prep on the block i noticed that while cleaning the pistons that i could move them a bit side-to-side(back-to-front blockwise) is this normal?
and when i vacuumed the block surface, a bit of oil was seeping up between the cylinder sleeves and the block(not the piston/sleeve), i could see a very slight gap(oil) batween the sleeve and the block when i look hard enough, this normal?

Bump...

Yes, there will be a tiny bit of play in piston-to-cylinder movement, as it is the rings that make all the contact normally.

If you submerge the lifters in a pail of oil, and depress the lifter with a push stick, or whatever, you can pump up oil into them. If you have dry lifters installed before starting the engine, it would run very rough until each lifter filled with oil, a few seconds, but I don't think you would harm anything doing such!

The protrusion should be 7.6-8.1 mm.

If greater than this value, you must use spacer rings. They make three thickness, .3mm, .6mm, and 1.0 mm.

I have just been through the head replacement :sad: . The fact that the head was machined means your timing may be off some when you re-install everything :worried: . Pay close attention to cam timing and subseuqently the injection pump. I recommend rotating everything at least twice (in the forward direction only) and checking the timing each rotation. you should check the injection pump timing at this point also. (through governor inspection plug 15 deg btdc, there are posts that outline it better) the car will start and run with the timing off at the cam and pump but rough and loud with lost of smoke :shocked: . it is very important also to torque the cam in the proper sequence ( and the cam sprocket :mad: , long, expensive story) If you need any other hints, you can pm and/or call me.

i checked the protrusion and its at 8mm. still safe.

i'm relieved to know about the piston movement being normal, i thought that maybe i also needed a bottom end rebuild. $$$

the timing WILL be off after a head shave? i'll do a search on how to check timing then,... can i do this before i fire up the engine?

thanks again guys i REALLY appreciate all the help as this is my first attempt with heads. :)

15* ATDC

It's a timing reference, not a timing spec.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

ok, so 15* ATDC at the crank? i should see the mark on the inspection hole at the pump?

oops :shame:

had a small block on the brain with BTDC

Correct. Through the hole where you would screw in the "inj. pump lock tool" (may come in handy for setting the pump timing, check with GSXR's posts on inj pump timing) you should see a grove or "V" cut in the edge of the governor flywheel. If doing this visually you will need a light and mirror, and maybe some air to blow any oil off the indicator for easier location.