If it's anything like the M-type pumps on the OM60X engines, the throttle arm will move forward as you increase the full load quantity--the idle quantity screw is then adjusted to pull the throttle arm back so that it will idle at the correct speed.

In my case that didn't do much.....and at only 1.5 turns out of the full load adjustment I can almost remove the idle stop screw and it still idles at 900 RPM....

But like I suspect the difference is my IP has less than 100K miles on it adn yours had well over 200K...I think that mine was delivering more fuel at the get go due to less wear. And cranking the ALDA all the way back didn't help either (much that is, you do need to compensate on this). Tonight I will try to readjust it to 3/4 turn out from original. and reinstall it...as 1.5 turns on mine in hot weather is over the top.

This is a great example why SMALL increminatal adjustments are agood idea.

Most defintely. I have had the back off 2 times already for this adjustment...doing it nice and slow.
I am okay with overfueling it and then coming back as I can watch the pyro and easily let out of it if things are getting too hot too fast.
Were you getting noticeable smoke with the higher idle/adjusted?

Brandon

Oh it laid down some Black smoke.......under hard acceleration....but none once you eased up...But what really bugged me was the fact it wanted to hang at cruising speed and was real slow to return to idle speed.

Hmm...
Do you think adjusting your lower screw (bottom left hand corner), which we believe to be the idle quanitity adjustment, could slow the idle down?
I realize we are playing with fire here tinkering with so many adjustments but I am just throwing the question out...not nessisarily condoning the adjustment thereof :)

Doctor,
I'm sure it is just a slip when you say turns out, but to increase fuel I turned the adjustment in or clockwise.

H202, What special is required to do the 60x pumps? Did you remove your oil filter housing when you did yours?

Thanks
David

Just realizing this error :D

I've found that it takes between 40-50min from start to finish to adjust mine. (I don't remove the filter housing).

I will be making a webpage with pictures on how I do it if anyone is interested.

Brandon

For the OM603 pump, there's no need to pull the filter housing. But on the 124 at least, you need to pull the cruise actuator (not sure about the 126 but I'd assume it's the same). Plenty of room for access but the adjustments are TOTALLY different than the 617 pump. I haven't messed with my 603 pump yet, but I will be doing so by mid-July if possible (only 1/2 turn since I have no IC or WI.)

Side note... the meimann.com domain will be shut down shortly, in an attempt to kill the tidal wave of spam. It will come back eventually but just for email, no Mercedes content. All the Mercedes content has been moved to the W124performance.com domain instead. The full load doc would be here:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/

:D

Anxiously awaiting results.... :D

Thanks
David

Yes...that was a typo becasue I had your email in my hand as I did it....just got things crossed up in my mind typing. Didn't get anything done tonight as I was awaiting word of if I was going to be heading to a undiscolsed Goverment location tonight...turns out I didn't go after all....so tomorrow I should get this done.

What is this undisclosed location you speak of? Just kidding. We should start a "what do you do for a living thread"

Thanks
David

Nope can't disclose that.......But a large portion of the work I do is for the goverment...as they are a customer.

The 300SD is offically adjusted. Idle is good and hasn't changed. It doesn't drop as quickly but I think that an idle quanitity screw adjustment might help that a touch :)

The Results?
Fast :)
No smoke as of yet...still bringing the boost down.
This pump has LOTS of room to add fuel.

Back out to play with the biodiesel...back later :)