As it turns out both of my previous posts are wrong. It metallic clanging noise was not the AC Compressor or the Power Steering pump but the crankshaft pully - the main pully has come off. It is dangling by one bolt.

I am not technical enough to know how to fix this. I fear the engine may have to be pulled. It was running fine when I turned it off. This explains why the power steering failed. At least I was across the street from my house when this happened and the car is in my driveway.

It will have to be towed unless I can learn how to fix this myself. I am guessing a bolt sheared off.

How is the pully attatched and how to I remove it?

I fear this may be the end. I am at the point of fixing and selling the car for what I can get out of it and get a Volkswagon diesel station wagon. I have an exhaust leak and the $130 pipe just came. Just spent at least $500 on the airconditioning repair and then this happened. I am so close to putting the for sale sign in the car unless someone can convince me otherwise.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

Dont expect any sympathy from us if you are just going to wail, cry or complain.Go ahead sell it, we arent going to beg you to keep it (Just kidding, I get pis___ and emotional about cars too.)Fixing things is an attitude. Obviously if you have to pay someone to do it, your attitude will suffer.
The Crankshaft pulley falls off for several reasons. One, someone overtightened a bely which put too much shear stress on it, and eventually the five hex nuts snapped that hold it on. Two, the last person who put it on didnt use loctite and it vibrated loose. Three, your AC compressor seized and took the pulley with it.

Its easy to fix if you have all the parts. Junk the car if you wish or pay the $140 to get it fixed ( three new belts, five new bolts, two hours labour) Or else get smart and fix it yourself for free.

Further inspection looks like pully and plate behind it (name?) are ok. No damage to pully.

It was dangling by two bolts which had not sheared off but had worked their way out of the pully. I apparently drove it across the street and into my drive with the pully off the engine. Didn't know.

I have those two bolts. It happened while car was at idle and parked. So no damage to fan or radiator.

Don't think that the new belts that I put on myself were damaged, although I may have overtightened them and not known it.

The tips of the bolts to looked damaged but that may have been where they were loose and being spun around or hitting metal, not from shearing off.

How long are these bolts supposed to be?
I pulled off pully and metal plate behind it.

Sorry for the frustration, but sometimes measured amounts of pain like car payments each month are easier to take than big repair bills. I guess that is what I was trying to say. This looks fixable without much problem, but how do you get much torque on a allen head bolt to tighten that pully on crankshaft??

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

The remaining chunks of the bolts can be extracted by vise grips. You will then get an idea of the total length. Dont get ones too long, or you will destroy your crankshaft seal.
You can find new hex bolts at Sears Hardware or Pep Boys.
You are smart, you have all the pieces.
Please make sure that you are at TDC when you remount the pulley by checking the camshaft through the valve cover oil fill hole. Its actually possible to mount it 180 degrees off if you don't check

I know how you feel, but I dont want to pay $450 a month , plus full insurance for a new car..

Cammerow,
What made the bolts work loose? I just had the AC repaired but did not have a new compressor installed. How do I check it for lockup?

I really think the bolts worked out - not sheared off.

Hope the bolt holes in the tensioner are not wallowed out.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

I would recommend if possible to use regualr hex-head bolts as allen bolts can be a pain to get a good grip on years later. Plus, I think hex-head bolts might be a little cheaper.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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sometimes if you dont use Loctite.
Please get yourself some Loctite Red. I dont think there's any problem with using hex bolts, my only feeling is that you want the correct grade of steel on those bolts, so please dont buy ones that are too cheap..

Dont give up. I was the same way last year, I had to learn to accept the fact, thats the road i chose. I'm frugal.

You dont sound like someone who gives up anyway.

i just did the same job not too long ago. four out of my six bolts sheared off the counter weight. counter weight is the one that is cloeset to the engine. blanancer then goes over the counter weight. make sure you take a punch and mark the position on the counter weight before you take it off. it must go back on the same way. it's alot of work but not difficult. don't get discourage. all you have to do is take out the radiator, a/c condensor and all the belts that are in the way. then you can get to the crank pully to take out those bolts. lowes have grade 8 replacement hex head bolts for around $1 apiece.

here are some pics i took during that process

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mazzy_1234/my_photos

Clarification needed.

I removed the pulley.
Is the metal plate behind the pulley the balancer or the counter weight?

I did not remove the part that has the threaded female holes for the bolts.

I removed the plate directly behind the pulley. I did not mark anything yet.
I had not planned to remove the other piece yet since it is bolted on.

PS - yes I am a fighter. I don't give up easily, but this has just been an all around difficult week at work, home, and otherwise. My initial fear was a new crankshaft. That's why I flipped until I surveyed the problem and talked to you fellas. Thanks.

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

Clarification needed.

I removed the pulley.
Okay
Is the metal plate behind the pulley the balancer or the counter weight?
Doesnt matter what you call it
I did not remove the part that has the threaded female holes for the bolts.
Thats the same thing as above and its has two small round keys--be careful don't lose them
I removed the plate directly behind the pulley. I did not mark anything yet.
Thats the same thing as above and its has two small round keys--be careful don't lose them
As I recall first there is the big crankshaft pulley which is held on by the six allen bolts to the metal plate behind it, call it waht you want, lets call it "PLATE". You don't have to take that "PLATE" off if its still on. That "PLATE" has your timing mark on it, by the way. That "PLATE" is keyed to your crankshaft with two keys. Then you secure your pulley to the
"PLATE" with the six allen screws, anyway is fine as long as the pulley faces outward of course ( ie dont worry about degrees of timing) When you finally stick your big crankshaft bolt in, everything will be tightened down and held securely..

I'm watching, I know you will do it,
I had not planned to remove the other piece yet since it is bolted on.
PS - yes I am a fighter. I don't give up easily,

I can tell
but this has just been an all around difficult week at work, home, and otherwise. My initial fear was a new crankshaft. That's why I flipped until I surveyed the problem and talked to you fellas. Thanks.
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Looked closer at the flat plate with the six holes and 6 star indention. Threads are totally stripped.

I guess the two small holes on the outside edge are the timing marks.

part#617 030 07 03

What attatches this plate to the piece behind it?

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

Found a used balancer for $65 at local yard

New one is $270 from ***************
OUCH!

I'm headed for the yard tomorrow. The guy said it was a 1982 300sd with a bad engine just brought in yesterday. Sounds like a good stripper. Has not been touched yet. Wonder what else I can find, HEE HEE HEE

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1982 300SD Light Blue
2002 Honda Accord SE
1974 Toro Wheel Horse Tractor
2000 Toyota Tundra Pickup

The two round keys attach it-don't lose them.

You can go to next size (standard, probably) bolt and buy a tap and make new threads. As I recall these are 8mm or 10 mm bolts so find a slightly larger standard size and you can be done by tonite.

Rev, the balancer is specially matched with the crank and flywheel. If you replace the balancer, you need another with the same balance configuration. Don't toss the old balancer, whatever you do! I don't know where you would go to get that done, maybe a good driveshaft shop. Also, maybe you could simply helicoil those stripped out holes. Helicoils are strong and reliable, and you can do that yourself.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.