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#1
09-04-2006, 10:14 PM
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Motor and Trans mounts?
Guys appreciate the great advice on this board. This week I have completed the following, Replaced all belts, installed new voltage regulator, rotors, master cyclinder, pads etc. Now its motor mount time. Do I need any special tools?
I want to replace both sides and the trans mount. Am I missing anything that can be done also? Where do I start? 
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#2
09-04-2006, 10:36 PM
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What model... ???
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#4
09-05-2006, 10:19 AM
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6 and 8mm allens for the engine mounts, 13 and 19mm for the trans mount. 10mm on the engine shocks.
__________________
 1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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#5
09-05-2006, 10:36 AM
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Before, power wash that area down very well. Be sure the allen caps are clean so that the wrench fits all the way in.
You don't want to risk a stripped bolt here.  You will need a floor jack and a large block of wood to slightly lift the engine just enough to get the mount out/in. While you're in the area of the RF mount, check the condition of the turbo drain tube seal.
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#6
09-05-2006, 02:21 PM
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Also a 7mm open end wrench (that's when I noticed mine was missing
 ) to counterhold the engine shock shaft while you remove the lower lock nuts .... I have an old pry bar with a tapered tip shaft that can be helpful when lining up the two larger bolts on the engine mounts. I have done this job a couple of times lately ... getting the car dead level while raised is helpful especially when it comes to putting stuff back together easily ... otherwise gravity can work against you and it can degrade to a wrestling match 'tween you and a VERY heavy object. If you don't have the MB 123 CD, it could be the best 20 bucks you could spend. While far being a complete text, it does cover most of the common stuff you encounter while twisting bolts on these old panzers.
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78 300d 158k driver 80 300d 200k fixer 80 300d parts car 98 Cherokee 240k " I know for certain that someday while parking or un-parking my Jeep Cherokee, I'm gonna' either pull the headlight switch right outa' its dashboard OR stomp its hood release lever clean offa' the kick panel. It's just a matter of which will happen first." 
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#7
09-05-2006, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
The center bolt on my mounts were IMPOSSIBLE to get off without a 3/8 drive 8mm allen head socket (Craftsman 8mm Hex Bit Socket Sears item #00942678000 Mfr. model #42678), a 3/8 breaker bar and a 2 foot cheater pipe. Do not expect to break the center bolts loose with a T-handle or L-type allen wrench. Neither of those will even reach the bolt head. My passenger side mount was fully collapsed. It was clearly a manufacturer defect. The rubber was fine, it just separated from the metal housing in the center. Replacing it made a WORLD of difference.
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#8
09-05-2006, 06:46 PM
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When you do strip out the allen heads... You will need a 3/8" drill bit in a nice, long size (~12"). Home Despot sells them for about $7.
Then, you learn to be much more careful about ensuring the allen socket is inserted fully into the head of the bolt before leaning on the breaker bar.
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