Hey Guys,

I've heard people say that the EGR is a bad idea on a diesel and it should be disabled to prevent it from harming other parts. Is this true? If so, how can I do it? The vacuum cables seem to all be connected still. Can you just remove the whole unit and cover the opening somehow?

Thank you,
Nick

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1983 300SD running on WVO soon, bought for $750!

Nick,
Being an emission component, you pose a question that can be tricky to answer. Please do a search on the topic and you will find ways to disable and/or remove some vacuum lines for "off-road or test" purposes. What you do from there would of course be an individual decision. I have my '87 in test mode based on the available threads with the EGR vacuum components resting in a card board box. This is of course to see how they perform away from the vehicle.

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Steve
'87 300TD - 132K - Soon 4-Sale
'84 300D Turbo - 122K - Driving
'77 VW Type II - 77K - Restored
'08 250EX Ninja
English Bulldog (Brier) - My best friend. Passed away 12/02/04 while in my arms.

I am not sure exactly what your looks like. I removed the tube from mine and cut it lenght wise. From that I made caps for the two ends.

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'85 300SD (formerly california emissions)
'08 Chevy Tahoe
'93 Ducati 900 SS
'79 Kawasaki KZ 650
'86 Kawasaki KX 250
'88 Kawasaki KDX200
'71 Hodaka Ace 100
'72 Triumph T100R

Long, Long time ago in a state far, far away I was informed that one could put a regular BB just inside where the vacume line connects. This would be for testing purposes only. Several years later I am still waiting for the results of this test.

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Ski
"Love them diesels"

63 190D (sold)
84 300SD
97 Dodge Cummins
97 HD FLSTC(if Harley made a diesel I'd have one)

takes time.
Which will fail first?
#1. The hose.
#2. The BB.

The world needs to know.

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ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Im testing a golf tee in mine

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'85 300 Turbo Diesel- 308K

Did you use a lead, steel, or aluminum bb? I used a lead one for my test. Will my Benz get lead poisoning?

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1983 300-D turbo
1985 300-D turbo
1959 Harley Panhead chopper
1929 Ford coupe restored
I hang out with Boneheaddoctor at Schuman Automotive OBK#5
All liberals are mattoids but not all mattoids are liberal.

I tried to post this before, but I guess the form never sent (my internet connection is lousy at home). Here's my Q: Is there any harm to plugging the vac line while NOT using a blocking plate? What is the effect of having the vac line plugged when the unit is stuck open? Is that any worse than leaving the unit to function untouched? Basically, my understanding is that plugging the vac line is helpful at best and harmless at worst. Is that a correct assessment?

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

The valve operates on vacuum. If the valve is working properly and you disconnect and plug the vacuum line, the valve can't open. The blocking plate simply allows you to remove the valve.

However, if the valve is mechanically stuck open, it doesn't need any vacuum to open and removal of the vacuum line won't accomplish anything. You must remove and clean up the valve so that it is unstuck. Or, you must use the blocking plate.

Plugging the vacuum line is helpful most of the time and harmless if the valve is stuck open.

Thanks Brian, for the thorough answer!

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Bodhi I thought we took care of your egr back in May at the meet?

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I'm in for a kit. I've recently sold Dieter and I have started to restore Brutus...

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Over 21 years I owned several:
w108
w110
w111
w115
w116
w123
w124
w126
w212

You did! I was just making sure there wasn't something else I was supposed to be doing on top of that. It does seem to get better mileage ... about 2 or 3 more mpg, and I feel as though it has more oomph (although that could just be the power of expectation).

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

On a 1985 300DT, where is the egr vacuum line connected to? I found an EGR "black box" behind the passenger side kick panel. I'd like to remove that unit as well and have my toolbox inspect it for a while. Any hints/tips would be greatly appreciated.

an 82 240d would have one right? i think that i may do some long term golf tee testing on mine then ;-)