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#1
11-28-2005, 10:21 AM
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Electrical issues (not charging)
I have a 1976 300D that is not holding a charge on the battery. Things that keep this from being an easy (for me) fix: Battery is good and did well during load test; alternator is charging the battery; long drive with electrical going, battery dies next start; car started fine this morning (28 degrees F.) after sitting for two days; and finally, the problem started when I tried plugging in the block heater one morning and battery got drained (don't know if that was just a concidence or if that was the cause).
I have put the battery on a charger overnight and once longer, it takes a full charge, after driving around for a while, it was at 13.3 volts when I had it load tested. On a similar note, I am unable to locate the fuse box for the dang thing. I found four fuses on the firewall (three 16 Amp and one 8 amp), but think that there has to be more than that somewhere on the car. Any suggestions would be helpful. I am thinking that I should replace the wiring harness and the ground (ground is attached to a pretty rusted area of the body). 
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#2
11-28-2005, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Regulators can do that....I went through that 2 years ago on my W116....turned out to be the regulator.... It was intermittantly draining the battery.....othertimes it worked perfectly.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche Last edited by boneheaddoctor; 11-28-2005 at 11:03 AM.
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#3
11-28-2005, 10:34 AM
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W-123 Fusebox
Look on the driver's side firewall just inboard of the hood hinge , it's there , two big black knobs holding the rectangular cover on ~ it's tricky so PAY ATTENTION to how it goes and _don't_ force it ~ it'll crack or break if you do .
Get a longer battery ground cable of # 1 gauge (or thicker) and replace the crummy short one , connect it to the engine block proper then add a grounding strap from engineor trany to the body ~ watch your charging rate
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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#4
11-28-2005, 11:28 AM
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Mac,
Also check the alternator brushes. They could be worn to point where they are working intermittantly. P E H
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#5
11-28-2005, 02:29 PM
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hmmm i wonder if this applies to me too...as i have had trouble the past couple of days with my electrical charging system...i am taking the car up to get a definitive answer from my mechanic...autozone/advance's tests were, to me, inconclusive.
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#6
11-28-2005, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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#7
11-28-2005, 10:40 PM
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Hmm...3rd test, by my MB mechanic, showed that ALT was putting out good AMPs...no problems...power draw (when keys were in ign) was 7amps...this is about normal..im told..the ground wire was a little loosehe widend the connector and reinstall..
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#8
11-29-2005, 11:13 AM
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You have a 115 chassis so you don't have a big square fuse box like the 123 chassis, but I believe it is in the same location. I can't remember, because it has been years since I even sat in a 115. IIRC the fuses you found were for the power windows and the radio. I'm thinking intermittent regulator or a key off current drain like maybe the power antenna. Good luck.
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd.
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#9
11-29-2005, 12:06 PM
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flatline the battery a few times and you will kill it...a battery costs what? a regulator you can get for about $30...odds of it failing WHILE you are testing it is mighty slim.....
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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