|
|
|
|
|
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
1982 300D
So, I'm on the very last valve, replacing the stem seal and spring (yes I know the #3 is the last, but I had to go back to the #5 and do the intake). The kit, while prudently telling me to cover the timing chain with rags so as not to let any parts fall into the engine, did not mention that I might be able to have a bolt slip into a small hole that is under the last support of the camshaft (is that what that is?) near the firewall and right next to the intake valve of the #5 set of valves. Does this hole lead into the engine? Please just shoot me. I really don't want to take apart my engine just to get a stupid bolt (the last one I had to put back) that fell down a hole that wasn't mentioned in the bloody kit. What have I done, and is there any way other than taking of the top of the engine and doing the seals and springs all over again after it took me forever to do it in the first place? For now, I'm leaving the rocker arms off until I hear from you guys (I as about to put them back on so I could adjust the valves and put the cover back on). Pete. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
i would
start by finding a wire to probe. maybe it dropped to the pan. if it doesnt find a magnet that will fit in the hole and put it down there.
good luck tom w
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Might be hard to get a magnet down the hole,
if the block is cast iron? Maybe if you epoxied the magnet to the end of a wooden dowel, you could then push it in as far as necessary? I have some cylindrical rare earth magnets that are 6.3 & 9.5 mm in diameter. I'll send you one, if either is the correct size? |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
DON'T PANIC Pete !
Go to Harbor Freight or SEARS and look for a telescoping magnet , it looks like an antenna shaft with a small but _very_ powerfull rare earth magnet on the end of it ~ it is chrome and has a pocket clip to hook over the edge of your top box so it'll always be handy ~ I've had one for years , only used it once or twice but it was worth the entire $2.95 it costs . take your time and not to worry . you may have to ' worry ' the bolt out and if the magnet keeps glomping onto the side of the hole rather than go down far enough to reach the bolt , you can either use a thin dowel to push the head down or gently bend the mast once it's extended so it won't collapse -but- do this carefully as it's easy to kink and break it off . once you're bent it fully extended it's junk but will get this one job done .
__________________
-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks, guys. It's the 14mm bolt that is the lower of the two bolts that go on top of the valve spring cap for adjstment. I do have a spare.
I guess my concern then, is that somehow (seeing how much much an engine vibrates), the bolt will bounce back into the valve area while the engine is running, and then make it's way over to the timing chain. I had planned on putting in a new oil pan, so I guess i can see if it shows up there. Could it do any damage to the oil pump? Is it a resonably straight shot to the pan? Does the return hole constrict at any point where a 14mm bolt could get stuck (meaning that in my world it will dislodge a couple of weeks down the road, bounce back into the valve area, and over to the timing chain). Thanks, Pete. |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Where's a good place to get a magnet?
|
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
have you tried radio shack... also check thinkgeek.com for some magnests.. heres the link
http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/science/770f/ |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
I found a valve keeper in my oil pan that had been bouncing around in the engine and probably went through the same oil return passage that you have the bolt in.
I doubt a 14mm bolt will make it through the hole and to the pan, it'll probably just stay lodged or bounce up into the cam. Either way I would definately get it out of there. You should be able to find a small magnet on a stick just about anywhere: Murray's, Auto Zone, Wally Mart, Meijer. Just make sure that the magnet is securely attached to the telescoping stick or whatever it's on the end of. I had to epoxy my magnet on to be safe, if that magnet gets stuck down in the head it won't be as easy as pulling the bolt out.
__________________
1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl?
|
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
Sometimes those nuts jump like hell when they hit concrete...bushes, could be. Hope you never have another thing to report on the subject...not a personal thing now, just hope something goes right for you on this one and it never bothers you again. We've all been there in one way or another...I know for sure I've had mine, and years later it's just another experience...Drive on.
__________________
1983 300SD... 269,000 miles, nearly 2,500 on my B-100, Faded Grey, Ugly in an elegant sort of way...Duh-Benz If any of this has been a blasphemy to you, then good, because it's been a blast for me to...A.Whitney Brown |
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
|
Maybe you should get a larger magnet and keep it on the bottom of the pan,
so that if the nut does find it's way there, it will stay there? I've also heard of people putting magnets on their oil filters, to attract the fine metal filings that are too small to be captured by the filter. |
|
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
I wish I was (kidding): Calling Boneheaddoctor... Rocker bolt #5 broke off despite correct torque. Thanks, though. Last edited by 300DPETE; 11-28-2005 at 11:06 PM. |
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
|
Okay, I finally was able to put everything back together...., I turned the key....pumped it a bit to get the air out of the lines....she purs...
I drove it around the block and up to the store, and the engined didn't sieze up and die, so I'm going with "the nut fell outside the engine" and wasn't in there the first place...I'm not going to entertain otherwise, or my sanity will be lost. Now that I've got the 3-week, should have been 2-day, "God please tell me I didn't ruin my engine" job out of the way, I have these things left to do: --Replace the ignition (I nearly threw a super fit when I initially couldn't turn the key after putting it all back together!). It's geting harder and harder to turn. --Replace the fuel tank strainer (and possibly the fuel sender). --Replace the drain plugs in the trunk --Get rid of the surface rust underneath that resulted from not using wood block on the jack stands --Fix the antenna (motor working, mast not) --Replace the glowplugs --Finish fixing the vacuum leak coming out of the 3/2 valves on top of the valve cover (yes, I know you all don't understand why I insist on having a functioning EGR valve, but I do). --Finish tiding up the 3-way valves that switch between diesel and VO and bracketing them down in the engine compartment. --Wax the poor girl. I want to thank all of you guys, very much, for helping me through all of this and making sure that I went to a machinist when that bolt snapped. Very much appreciated, and if you all were close enough to enjoy a round of drinks, they'd be on me. Thanks, again, Pete. P.S. Other than changing the foel tank strainer next Friday, I believe I'm going to put the MB aside for a little while, and get caught up with life.
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|