I've been parting out a couple of W123s and am at the last step with one of them: the dash. All I can say is WOW. That is a royal PITA to remove. It is built like a puzzle too. There is always something that you have to remove before you remove any other part. Often there are 4 things that you have to remove first.

I was thinking of swapping in this manual control setup in place of the 1984 climate control in my "keeper" wagon, but I'm going to think twice about that. This is a lot of work.

-Tad

__________________
1995 G320
2003 C230 Kompressor Coupe
2005 ML500
2007 ML350

I've removed two of them so far. I didn't think they were that bad compared to some of the old American stuff I've worked on in the past. Paul.
'84 300CD 290,000

I thought putting the dash back in was the hard part. Getting all the vent ducts re-connected was a bit of a puzzle. It's kinda cool to see all the on goings under the dash. Lots of stuff under there.

__________________

Are there any other threads that provide more details on dash removal and installation? or does anyone want to walk me through it?

thanks
p

For a 123 that is. Can't find much on a search...

likewise, me.

i suppose mr carlton was correct when he said repairs would find me sooner than later; my heater smells sweet and i am guessing i need a heater core.

itll also let me replace the loose keyswitch as well maybe even replace my cracked pad with a less ugly one!

__________________
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i1...Untitled-1.jpg

a) Remove the speaker covers - there one screw under each spkr cover - those come out.
b) Remove the instrument cluster along with both lower kick panels.
c) At both out outer edges adjacent to the door there is a fastener that will have to be removed.
d) In the passenger footwell to the left at the dash to console interface there is a fastener that will need to come out.
e) Remove the wood assembly with the four switches for the sunroof, defrost, etc... You will find two screws that have to come out there.
f) Remove the brake pull handle and the light switch.
f) The one I always forget and typically end up breaking is the interior temp sensor. There is a connector that you can disconnect to remove it.
g) Remove the chrome ring around the ignition switch.
h) Remove the flex hoses that go to the outside dash pods.
This is going on memory but I believe this is all. The tricky part is positioning the dash at an angle to slide it out with. I usually try to do it from the passenger side. You are less than 1/2 way there (removal stage only)in the evap job when you have the dash out. In my opinion the dash removal is pretty straightforward. In addition, I have never had any issues with rattling or unusual noises after doing an evaporator job thank goodness.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Jim

[QUOTE=Biodiesel300TD] Getting all the vent ducts re-connected was a bit of a puzzle.
How do you get the tricky vents re attached?
Thanks in advance
Tree

__________________
Collector of Fine Hose Clamps
'77 240D 'AVA' is in heaven now
'80 240D Kanarienvogel
'82 300TD 343k was my daily driver 'ADOLPH' In Surgery for a severe Deer Bite to the Nose
'88 560SL 102k 'White One'

Not sure which part your talking about.Soooo

Corrugated tubes from the heater box to the vent assembly. Then are just push on. There are small nubs that hold the tube in place.

Rubber boot from heater box to center vents. This requires a little dexterity. I use a Small screw driver to move the edge onto the heater box as well as the vent assemblies. Place as much on the box/vent as possible holding it with your fingers as you roll it on. Some silicon spray helps it slide on.

The actual vent assembly as mounted on the dash. IF you have broken any of the small opening tabs on the black vent assembly. It will not hold on the dash. Breaking the tabs is very common when taking them off due to the age of the vent. To mount the assembly just press it on . The tabs will click in place and lock, there is a waffer spring washer that applies tension . As I said, if you have broken a tab, then you have to buy a new one. The dealer has them. BUT the center 240D vents are no longer made. So you either have to find a used one or use a 300D closeable one in place of the non closing 240D vent. Also the 240D center vent rubber duct is no longer made. However the 300D rubber duct does have reinforcement where the closing shaft goes thru the rubber. So it can be cut for the 240D.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

This should be very helpful:
1. Removinig the steering wheel is very simple but often the nut is on there real tight. I've found that you don't need locktite to put it back on. Even if you apply minimal torque to the nut when you put it back on it becames very tight if you have to pull it back off again.
2. Its much easier to remove the dash if you rotate it to get the gauge cluster opening to turn down toward the steering wheel shaft. The back part of the dash needs to come up following the windshield. It helps to protect the criuse control stick and frees the yoke shaped part of the dash that goes around the steering shaft.
3. PLEASE! Don't forget to remove the vent tubes. The mounts that snap the vents to the front chrome rings will break tabs. One thing to mention additionally is that you have to line up the tabs to get the vents to snap in even if they still have all of there tabs. You can run you fingers just inside the vent edge to feel a step that protrudes inward 1/8 of an inch. That is where there is a tab.
4. To replace the long dry rotted foam tube that connects the temp sensor in the middle of the dash to the passenger side rubber hose that goes to the fan housing you only need about 6-8 inches for the replacement. Its hard to tell how much you need till you have the dash in and then your upside down. Its easy to trim what you need though.
5. Getting the mounting screws started that are next to the speaker starting is tough. Not putting your hands thru the speakers is almost inevitable if they are left in.
6. Go ahead and clean the dozen brown grounding wires right behind the cluster. That will cut down on electrical gremins.

__________________
'83 300DT
'04 Forester XT--modified
'61 Beetle EFI Turbo
Burley recumbant