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  #16  
Old 12-02-2005, 09:10 PM
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I put on the timing chain without the head on the car. The cam and crank match up perfectly. Of course this is accomplishe due to the new timing chain. It was difficult to get the timing correct due to the tension created by the IP sprocket.

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  #17  
Old 12-03-2005, 01:35 AM
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Well I would just continue trying to check the IP timing then. It really shouldn't be that hard. I had absolutely no problem checking it without any special tools.
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  #18  
Old 12-03-2005, 10:35 AM
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Okay I think I found my problem!!!!!!!!!!! When the cam is 180 degrees out and the crank is at 15 degrees ATDC I see a straight mark not a v on the IP I would assume that this is my problem!!!! The only thing that I really messed with is the cam. So if the cam is 180 out when the IP adminsters gas to #1 cylinder well you know what happens no fire. Am I on the right track???

Now I would like to reverse the engine so I can place her at TDC and take out the cam and rotate back to TDC on the cam. But I know that is a no no. So I will advance it and try it.


DO YOU GUYS THINK THIS IS WHY SHE HAS NOT FIRED YET???????????
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2005, 02:06 PM
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I don't really understand what you mean by the cam being 180 degrees out. Did you understand what I said yesterday about the IP rotating half as fast as the crank? Meaning, you'll see the mark only every other 15 deg ATDC. The mark that you saw is the "V". Same thing, different name. It looks more like a ridge actually.
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  #20  
Old 12-03-2005, 03:54 PM
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If you have determined for sure that the cam timing is out 180, I would try this first..... Bring the engine to 60 degrees after TDC. In this position there is the most room possible between the head and nearest pistons . Take the sprocket off the cam. Using a pair of channel locks (or similar) rotate just the cam to line up with it's marks and then go another three teeth past the mark (clockwise) One tooth should equal 15 degrees so three should put the cam 60 degrees past, matching the crank and pump. Put the gear back on the cam and go another two revolutions to double check all the timing marks again. If everything lines up now, button it up, and get ready to run.
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  #21  
Old 12-03-2005, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gvanhouten
Okay I think I found my problem!!!!!!!!!!! When the cam is 180 degrees out and the crank is at 15 degrees ATDC I see a straight mark not a v on the IP I would assume that this is my problem!!!! The only thing that I really messed with is the cam. So if the cam is 180 out when the IP adminsters gas to #1 cylinder well you know what happens no fire. Am I on the right track???

Now I would like to reverse the engine so I can place her at TDC and take out the cam and rotate back to TDC on the cam. But I know that is a no no. So I will advance it and try it.


DO YOU GUYS THINK THIS IS WHY SHE HAS NOT FIRED YET???????????
That straight mark is what your looking for. I was going to mention that earlier but I didn't know if the 603 is different than the 617, which is what I have. The mercedes holding tool had a straight line indent that is supposed to lock in place when that straight line ridge inside the pump locks into the indent on the tool.
This is with the crank set at 15deg ATDC with the #1 intake valve pointing UP. That should be the very first valve. You don't need to take the valve cover off to see that just remove the oil cap.
With the crank set right, the cam in the right position you should be able to see the straight line mark inside the pump as you move it back and forth. Center that in the "window" and lock the pump down.

If the cam and crank are in the right position and you can't see the mark (stick a paper towel in the "window" if you have to) then the pump is probably off. I would suggest you try the drip method for verification.

danny
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2005, 05:10 PM
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As suspected I was off 180 degrees the cam now is set properly and at 15degrees ATDC I can see in the IP window the straight mark. It is dead on no ifs ands or buts. I hope this takes care of why she did not start. I will keep you posted. I need to go and get a new battery. I think I fried my old one.
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  #23  
Old 12-03-2005, 05:19 PM
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That's awesome everything is lining up. Hope that solves your problem.

One last thing. The crank is set at 15deg ATDC minus chain stretch. if you have 1deg chain stretch the crank is set at 14deg ATDC for a perfect adjustment.

Let us know how it goes.

Danny
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2005, 05:21 PM
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The chain is brand new and everything is dead on. THANK GOD!!!!!!

I am so damn happy that I checked into the IP Timing with the cam because it just makes sense. I'll let you know. FUNNY VIDEO, NOW GET TO WORK!!!LOL
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2005, 05:24 PM
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Way cool!

Sorry my laptop battery just died. Keep in mind new chains are built to wear in at around 20,000 miles so a new one will be a little off that's ok.

My last post was more for anyone reading this for research on this kind of project.

Get to work??? it's Saturday!!

Danny
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2005, 08:38 PM
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Holy Mackeral It Started Finnaly!!!!!

Well the damn thing finnaly started hardest car in the world to get started.

Let me explain it sputtered and sputtered and finnaly it exgnited!!!


Big old black cloud followed and it thined out. I believe one of the injectors in knocking.


I think I know why the car overheated does not seem to be circulating water through (Water pump) Thats okay I did not even let it get close to hot.


George
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  #27  
Old 12-03-2005, 10:01 PM
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So it was your valve timing afterall! Now I see what you meant by the cam being 180 degrees out. Duh.

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